Repair strawberry after winter. Repairing strawberries, cultivation techniques and care features

Among gardeners, strawberries, which give several harvests per season, are especially popular. This is due to the high yield rates. This is explained by the fact that, unlike ordinary varieties, flower buds form in it throughout the summer.

With proper cultivation and care, remontant strawberries can bear fruit almost continuously. But it gives the most bountiful harvests only twice. The first in the middle of summer, the second in early autumn. Also, some new varieties are capable of producing crops on the mustache of the current year.

Growth features

The word "remontant" is translated as "blooming again." Consequently, the main feature of such strawberries is the possibility of re-flowering and fruiting. Immediately after the first wave of fruiting, new flower buds begin to form on the plants.

All remontant strawberries in relation to the length of daylight hours can be divided into the following groups:

• long day;
• neutral;
• short.

The first group of plants forms buds when the duration of the light period reaches 16 hours or more. The peak of fruiting of such varieties occurs in mid-summer, early autumn. Moreover, the second wave of strawberry fruiting will be much more abundant than the first.

The second group of strawberries can form buds throughout the summer with a certain cycle. Mass harvesting of fruits usually takes place every 1.5 months.

The latter group of plants produces flowers in early spring and autumn. So how to properly grow recurring strawberries?

Indoor and outdoor cultivation

Growing remontant strawberries is possible in open and closed ground.

In the open field, it is planted directly on the ridges. Outdoor strawberry yields are largely dependent on weather conditions.

In the greenhouse, depending on the technology, strawberries are planted in a special peat or coconut substrate. Cultivation in a greenhouse allows for higher yields with a smaller planting area.

When growing strawberries in a greenhouse, they need to create a certain light regime. This is especially important when growing remontant varieties year-round. In winter, for the establishment of flower buds, plants must be provided with a day of light with a duration of at least 16 hours. For additional lighting of bushes, you can use phyto lamps with a specially selected spectrum.

The temperature when growing remontant varieties in a greenhouse should not fall below + 20 °. During the flowering period, it is recommended to increase the temperature to + 24 °. Higher values ​​are undesirable, as they can provoke the fall of the strawberry flowers.

Recurring fruiting strawberries grown indoors should be fed regularly. Fertilizers are applied 2 times a week. For plant nutrition, it is better to use complex mineral compositions. They are bred in accordance with the attached annotations.

Reproduction

There are several ways to propagate remontant strawberries:

1. with a mustache;
2. dividing the bush;
3. from seeds.

Let's consider them in more detail.

Mustache

The easiest and most common way to propagate strawberries. For this, a mother plantation is formed from part of the bushes. When caring for her, the growing mustache is preserved, allowing them to take root. For convenience, the rosettes of the bushes can be rooted in small containers. After the development of the root system, the mustache is cut, and the formed plants are transplanted to a permanent place. Strawberries begin to bear fruit only the next year.

Attention! A feature of mustache breeding is that only first-order sockets are used for reproduction.

By dividing the bushes

Strawberry cultivation can also be done by dividing the overgrown bushes. This method is used for dry, remontant varieties, for example, Lorana. The division of the bushes is carried out in early spring or late summer. Large bushes are dug up, and with a sharp knife or shovel they are divided into several parts. Delenki are planted on pre-prepared ridges. For the first 2 weeks, the plants must be watered abundantly. During autumn division, young plants are provided with winter shelter. For this, you can use non-woven covering material, leaves or straw.

Sowing seeds

Seed propagation of strawberries is used less often. This is explained by the long growing period and the complexity of agricultural technology. Sowing starts in February. To do this, prepare containers of a suitable size and a loose, nutritious soil. After leveling, the soil surface is covered with clean river sand. Seeds are carefully distributed over it.

After sowing the seeds, the container is placed in a cold place with a temperature of + 1-2 °. For these purposes, for example, you can use a household refrigerator. The duration of stratification should be at least 1 month. After its completion, the container is placed in a warm, well-lit place.

Seedlings may appear unevenly over 2-3 weeks. After the development of a pair of true leaves, the seedlings dive into separate containers. 10 days after the pick, the plants are fed with a solution of urea or any universal fertilizer.

During this period, it is very important to ensure a sufficient level of illumination. For this it is recommended to use supplementary lighting. Fluorescent fluorescent lamps or special phyto are used as a source of illumination. They are placed 15-20 cm above the plants.

Strawberry seedlings are planted in a permanent place in early May. When planting, the plants are carefully knocked out of the pots, trying to damage the root system as little as possible. After the end of planting work, the bed is thoroughly watered and shaded. This prevents sunburn and shortens the adaptation time in a new place.

Landing

For planting strawberries, they choose sunny places without a close occurrence of groundwater. The soil on the site should be light, fertile with neutral acidity. This will help to achieve good development of the root system, and therefore high yields.

A bed for spring planting of strawberries is prepared in mid-April. For this, the soil is dug to the depth of the shovel bayonet. For digging, mineral fertilizers are applied: superphosphate and potassium salt. The rates of their costs are indicated on the package.

When planting, the distance between the bushes should be at least 20-40 cm, between rows 50-60 cm. When planting on a garden bed, the seedlings are buried to the level of the root collar. You cannot plant deeper. Subsequently, such plants will rot and die.

There are also other methods of disembarkation. For example, the soil surface is covered with black agrofibre. Seedlings are planted in pre-drilled holes. The advantage of this method is that seedlings planted on agrofibre do not require weeding, and ripening berries are practically not affected by fruit rot.

Advice! Planting remontant strawberries is possible in the fall. The main thing is that it has time to take root before the onset of frost.

Care

To better understand how to properly care for remontant strawberries, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of its development. Unlike single-fruiting varieties, remontant varieties experience more severe stress. Therefore, they definitely need appropriate feeding and timely watering.

Watering

Strawberries are moisture-loving plants. It should be watered regularly throughout the growing season. This is explained by the superficial root system of the plant, which is damaged when the surface layer of the soil dries out. The frequency of watering strawberries depends on weather conditions:

• in spring and early summer, before the onset of a steady heat, the plants are watered weekly;
• with a significant increase in temperature, watering is carried out 2-3 times a week, it is necessary to monitor the level of humidity.

Attention! Bay is no less harmful to strawberries than drought. Excessive moisture very often becomes the cause of the development of various rot.

With sufficient watering, the strawberry rosettes quickly build up a leaf mass and lay a large number of flower buds. With a lack of moisture, metabolic processes are inhibited, and the plants themselves look oppressed.

Watering is best done in the morning or evening. It is desirable that the irrigation water is warm. Strawberry bushes are watered strictly at the root. To reduce labor costs, drip irrigation can be arranged on strawberry beds.

Top dressing

When caring for strawberries, timely fertilization is imperative. The best option is to alternate organic matter with mineral fertilizers.

The timing of fertilization for remontant varieties is as follows:

• Immediately after the snow melts, the bushes are fed with a urea solution.
• After 2 weeks, phosphate-potassium fertilizers are used. They contribute to the formation of flower buds.
• After harvesting, remontant strawberries are fed with fermented mullein solution.
• At the beginning of August, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are reused.

Attention! Fertilizers should not be applied in the fall. Strawberries that have started to grow overwinter very badly.

Mustache trimming

After planting, caring for strawberries also consists of trimming the whiskers. The peak of their growth occurs in the second half of the summer. The whiskers develop from dormant buds located at the bottom of the bush. With their growth, the rows thicken, and the yield decreases significantly.

The mustache should be trimmed as it grows back. They are usually removed 2-3 times during the summer. Pruning shears or sharp scissors are used for pruning. At the end of the work, all plant residues must be removed.

Spring-summer mustaches are often used to breed the best remontant varieties. They perfectly convey varietal characteristics. With their help, you can quickly get a fairly large amount of high-quality planting material.

Features of autumn care

When growing remontant varieties of long daylight hours, the crop sometimes does not have time to ripen completely. With the onset of early frosts, the bushes do not have time to adapt to them and die. Therefore, in the fall, when caring for remontant strawberries, it is necessary to create protective shelters. For example, the bushes can be covered with coniferous spruce branches, a layer of straw or a special perforated film. They will protect the bushes from freezing.

When caring for strawberries, attention should be paid to the prevention of diseases and pests. To do this, before the onset of stable frosts, all the leaves are cut off from the bushes. Then I treat the bed with strawberries with a fungicide solution. For example, you can use Bordeaux mixture. After the end of the work, all plant residues of plants must be destroyed. If this is not done, they can become a breeding ground for pests and diseases.

Secrets of growing delicious strawberries

To grow strawberries with pleasure, the harvest is high and tasty, it is worth knowing some of the subtleties. Below are a few secrets to help you succeed.

1. Purchase of certified virus-free strawberry seedlings. Healthy plants are the key to successful strawberry cultivation.
2. Predecessors. Avoid planting strawberries in areas where potatoes, tomatoes, and strawberries have been recently grown.
3. You need to provide plenty of sunlight. Find a sunny spot. The warmth and light helps to produce sweet and tasty berries.
4. Fertile and permeable soil. It is better to plant strawberries in slightly acidic soil 6-6.5 pH. Mix the soil with compost or manure about a month before planting. Granular manure (easy to use, natural, safe and odorless) is also a great solution.
5. Agrotextile against weeds. Don't let weeds compete with strawberries. Black agrotextiles naturally prevent the development of weeds, while allowing water and air to pass through, retaining moisture in the soil. Strengthens the root system and speeds up the growing season. An additional advantage of using agrotextile is the collection of pure and unsorted berries. It is worth additionally spreading straws under the plant during the flowering season, which will reflect the sun's rays and the fruits will not ripen so quickly.
6. Space. Plant the seedlings about 30 centimeters apart, with a row spacing of 50 centimeters. Strawberry roots should not curl. Be careful not to plant the strawberries too shallow, so that the roots do not dry out or too deeply.
7. Pick ripe berries on a sunny day. To keep your strawberries fresh and firm for longer, pick the fruit with a stem at least 1 cm long.
8. Replace old plants every 3-4 years. Strawberries will become unproductive after this time. It is best to replace them with new ones, free from diseases and pests.

When growing strawberries with repeated fruiting, it is imperative to take into account the peculiarities of its development, the plants must be properly cared for. It is possible to hope for high yields only if these conditions are met.

After a long winter, gardeners look forward to the first fresh berries, which include large-fruited strawberries, or strawberries. But the time of waiting often lasts longer than the enjoyment of the fruits itself. To harvest strawberries all summer long, breeders have developed a remontant variety of this crop.

The word "remontant" is translated from French as "blooming again." Such strawberries bear fruit several times per season, and are distinguished by a high return. Remnant strawberries usually have two or three fruiting waves, while rare varieties have four. The first wave usually occurs in July, and the second in August. If you correctly combine on the site the usual and remontant varieties of early, middle and late ripening, you can continuously feast on strawberries all summer. Under the condition of a warm autumn, the berries will ripen almost until the first snow.

Repairing strawberries have the following planting and care features:

• The growing season of the plant is extended. Repairing strawberries require more careful care: this means that the gardener must constantly monitor the moisture content of the soil, loosen the soil and regularly carry out complex fertilizing.
• The bush ages faster, since the plant needs a lot of strength to bear fruit. Accordingly, you have to constantly grow new seedlings.
• The bush is smaller, it does not give whiskers so well. Consequently, it takes up less space in the garden.
• It often goes under the snow with buds, therefore it requires additional shelter. Most remontant varieties have low winter hardiness.
• Suitable for home cultivation on a windowsill or balcony. With the right choice of variety and proper care, it will bear fruit all year round. In winter, the plants must be supplemented for 12 hours a day.

Types of remontant strawberries

Depending on the characteristics of fruiting and reproduction, varieties can be divided into several categories.

• Long / neutral daylight hours.

Flowering of DSD varieties is possible only when daylight hours lasts longer than 10 hours. These strawberries produce several harvest waves over a period of 2-3 years. The second wave of fruiting is usually more productive. Varieties: Crimean remontant, Autumn fun, Inexhaustible, Garland.

Varieties with neutral daylight hours are less dependent on the duration of illumination. Flowers, young ovaries and ripe berries coexist on the bush. Bears fruit evenly throughout the season. The life of the bush is 1 year. The best remontant varieties of strawberries NSD: Monterey, Albion, Murano, Harmony, Selva. Suitable for warm regions, winters poorly in the cold.

• Mustache / little mustache / mustache

Mustacheless strawberries are less demanding to care for: there is no need to constantly thin out the emerging shoots. The plant does not take away the strength for reproduction, which has a positive effect on the yield, but the bush thickens quickly, so the berries become smaller. These strawberries are more difficult to propagate. Varieties: Alexandrina, Koketka, Orion, Bolero.

Whiskered strawberries are easy to reproduce, but require constant attention: the garden bed quickly overgrows with new shoots that must be removed. She needs more space on the site. Varieties: Alba, Tristar, Asia, Lyubava, Diamant.

Little-wicked grows a mustache only in the first year of life. It is possible to propagate it by layering only in the summer after planting. Varieties: Elsanta, Vicoda, Capri.

• Large-fruited / small-fruited

Large-fruited strawberries are popularly called Victoria. Berries of such varieties as Queen Elizabeth, Vima Rina, Temptation, Albion, weigh more than 20 g, some reach 50-70 g. The pulp of such fruits is juicy, but more watery. They are good for freezing.

Small-fruited strawberries are commonly referred to as strawberries. The average weight of berries is 5-7 g, they are more aromatic, ripen faster. Bushes are less susceptible to gray rot, since the berries practically do not fall on the ground. Small-fruited strawberries usually do not have a mustache, but, unlike large ones, they can multiply with their own seeds. Varieties: Ruyana, Forest Fairy Tale, Baron Solemacher, Rügen, Cinderella.

How to choose a variety

Before buying seeds and seedlings, the gardener must decide what is the main purpose of growing and what conditions for strawberries can be created on the site (it will grow in a garden bed or in a greenhouse, how much space can be allocated, whether the bushes will hide for the winter).

• If the goal is harvesting for future use, you should choose varieties that ripen in harmony and give a large mass. This is a large-fruited SDD strawberry. When buying, pay attention to the yield of varieties and the density of berries.

Variety name	Features of the bush	Features of berries		Disease resistance
Queen Elizabeth 2 Up to 1.5 kg / s bush	Powerful, low, spreading. Strong tendency formation.	50 - 70 g. Asymmetrical, lumpy. Juicy and sweet and sour, medium density	Winter hardy. Suitable for growing in Siberia and the Urals.	Resistant to gray mold and spotting.
Marshmallow Up to 1 kg / s bush	Tall with a thick peduncle.	40-60 g. Dark red, scallop-shaped. Sufficiently sweet, dense.	Withstands frost if well covered with snow.	Resistant to gray mold and powdery mildew.
Moscow delicacy Up to 1.2 kg / s bush	Compact. Leaves are medium in size.	30 g. Bright red color, shiny, with pinkish flesh. Sweet with moderate sourness, firm.	With excess moisture, it can give bitterness. Requires good shelter for the winter.	Average. Susceptible to fungal diseases.
Garland Up to 1.2 kg / s bush	Short, spherical, with a lot of mustache.	30 g. Red-pink, oblong, dense, with a light strawberry aroma.	Drought resistance and frost resistance are average, loves semi-shady places. Suitable for vertical cultivation.	Susceptible to powdery mildew and fungal diseases.

• When grown mainly for food, you should pay attention to the taste - the description of the variety should indicate that the berries have a dessert taste. You should give preference to strawberries NSD, which have medium and small fruits: they are sweeter and more aromatic, they bear fruit all summer.

Variety name	Features of the bush	Features of berries	Requirements for growing conditions	Disease resistance
Marisol Up to 0.8 kg / s bush	Strong and powerful, flowers are located above the leaves.	25 g. Thick, bright red, conical, sugary.	Drought tolerant.	Very stable.
Ostara Up to 1 kg / s bush	Compact, with a fruiting mustache.	15 - 20 g. Very sweet, reminiscent of wild strawberries. Poorly tolerated transportation.	Requires constant preventive treatment for fungal diseases.	Susceptible to root diseases, gray rot.
Mara de bois Up to 0.7 kg / s bush	Small, with short peduncles. The whiskers give little, but they bear fruit.	20 g. Conical, red-orange. With a strong strawberry aroma.	Can be grown ampelno. When ripe, the berries fall on the ground, stands are needed.	Prone to gray mold and mottling. Powdery mildew resistant.
Rügen Up to 0.5 kg / s bush	Compact, semi-spreading, mustacheless, with straight, strong peduncles.	6 g. Bright red, oblong, sugary, with a forest berry aroma.	Winter hardy.	Stable.

• In the case of commercial cultivation, pay attention to the possibility of transportation and keeping quality of berries, yield and attractive appearance.

Variety name	Features of the bush	Features of berries	Requirements for growing conditions	Disease resistance
Albion Up to 1.5 kg / s bush	Very large and spreading, with powerful peduncles.	40 g. Bright red, oblong, very dense with a light aroma. The taste is revealed during the second wave of fruiting.	Drought tolerant. May freeze out - be sure to cover for the winter	Low.
Monterey Up to 2 kg / s bush	Powerful, with large leaves.	30 g. Dark cherry, glossy, oblong, aromatic and juicy	Low winter hardiness - suitable for southern regions.	Susceptible to powdery mildew.
San andreas Up to 1 kg / s bush	Medium in size with a strong root system. Little mustache.	30 g. Hard, shiny, oblong, slightly sour, dense	On especially hot days it needs shading. Demanding on the soil.	Very stable
Capri Up to 2 kg / s bush	Compact, medium-sized with straight, powerful peduncles. Little mustache.	40 g. Burgundy, glossy Conical, with dense skin	Frost resistant, drought resistant, does not require shading.	Stable

When to plant strawberries

Strawberry seeds are sown between February 15 and March 15, focusing on the characteristics of the variety and the lunar calendar.

The plant grows actively twice a year: in spring and in mid-summer. The first planting of seedlings in open ground in central Russia is carried out from April 15 to May 5, when the snow melts, the temperature will be 10-12 ° C. If young bushes will grow under spunbond or foil, they can be planted a week earlier. Planting in spring allows you to get a harvest in the same year.

In summer, you can plant strawberries from July 25 to August 20, so that the plant has time to take root and go strong before winter. For these purposes, a mustache is usually used.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds

This method of obtaining seedlings is quite laborious: young plants are very delicate, their growth rate is low. However, after transplanting into open ground, they quickly grow stronger and accelerate the growth rate.

Soil preparation and containers

Seeds should be germinated in a large flat container 5-7 cm high with drainage holes at the bottom. From soils, strawberry prefers sandy loam, loam, humus. You can buy a universal soil in a store, before that, be sure to check the acidity: the soil should be slightly acidic or neutral (pH 5-6). Or independently prepare a mixture of vermicompost, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 3: 1. Previously, it is worth disinfecting the soil by calcining in the oven for half an hour at a temperature of 150o. You can also get rid of harmful microorganisms with the help of special fungicides, potassium permanganate or heating the soil with steam. After the soil has cooled, pour it into the box, water abundantly before planting.

Seed preparation

Disembarkation

Strawberry seeds are small. To sow them conveniently, you can mix the seeds with sand. The resulting mixture is evenly scattered over the surface of the bowl. After that, sprinkle with water from a spray bottle, which will pull the seeds into the soil a little.

Another way is to put a layer of snow on top of the soil, and then spread the seeds on it with tweezers at a distance of 2 cm between the plants. The seeds will be visible and can be moved if desired. Then the container is placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2-3 days. When the snow melts, it will drag the seeds inside. This method does not require further thinning and makes picking easier.

Leaving before sprouting

The container is covered with polyethylene or glass and placed in a bright, warm place with a temperature of about 20 ° C. It will feel best on the windows of the south or southeast side. To accelerate growth, if there is a lack of light, it can be used within 12 hours.

It is important to monitor the level of moisture in the soil: the soil should not dry out, but at the same time, excessive watering should be avoided so that mold does not grow and the seeds do not rot. Condensation on the greenhouse lid should be visible, but not collect in large drops.

Seedling care

The first seeds will sprout in 2-3 weeks. Polyethylene must be removed 3-4 days after the mass emergence of sprouts. Until this moment, air the young for 30 minutes twice a day.

When the shoots first appear, water should be done carefully so as not to nail the tender shoots to the ground. This can be done with a teaspoon or pipette.

On too sunny and hot days, the sprouts need shading.

The pick is made in 6x6 cm pots. After one and a half to two months, when 2-3 true leaves grow. Further grooming consists in moderate watering, loosening and gradual hardening. Plants with 3-4 carved leaves at the age of 2.5 months can be planted in open ground.

Buying ready-made seedlings

When buying ready-made planting material, you need to pay attention to:

• the size and development of the sprout: the seedlings must have at least 3 true leaves;
• the condition of the root system: the roots should be light, more than 6 cm long, they should be visible from the drainage hole of the pot;
• the presence of a heart.

Landing in open ground

Site selection and preparation of beds

When planning a site, remember that strawberries love well-lit areas. It is better to choose a place for culture that is flat or with a slight slope oriented to the south-west. Groundwater should not be higher than one and a half meters. You should also follow the rules of crop rotation and take into account the proximity to other crops. Useful precursors of strawberries are carrots, bulbous plants, beets, garlic, and legumes. Do not re-plant in one place, and also do not plant after eggplants, tomatoes and potatoes. From neighbors, he prefers radishes, lettuce, peas, marigolds. It is best to avoid close planting with nightshades, sunflowers and Jerusalem artichoke.

After choosing a place, you should prepare the soil: dig the garden bed to a depth of 30 cm, remove the rhizomes of the weeds. Next, the soil is fertilized with humus (bucket per square meter) and left for two weeks.

Planting is carried out in two ways: with a carpet or in rows. The choice of one of them depends on the size of the allocated area, the characteristics of the variety and the convenience for gardeners. With the carpet method, the seedlings are staggered, the distance between neighbors should be 25-30 cm. When seated in lines, a bed 60-70 cm wide is formed, 2 rows of plants are planted along it. The distance between adjacent bushes in one row is 30 cm. It is also possible to grow certain varieties vertically on a trellis, in a column.

You can immediately plant under the covering material to protect the crop from fungus, weeds, drying out or freezing. To do this, spread the required amount of cloth and press down along the edges with bricks or sprinkle it with earth, make cross-shaped cuts in it for seedlings.

Landing

You can transplant sprouts when there is no active sun: in cloudy weather, and on clear days - in the morning and evening. For each plant, holes are prepared with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of up to 25 cm. They put 1 tbsp. l. ash and superphosphate, which should be sprinkled with fertile soil and spilled abundantly from a watering can.

Plants are transplanted along with a lump of earth. For better adaptation, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in a heteroauxin solution (a tablet for 5 liters of water) or sprinkled with Kornevin. When planting, the buds, flowers and berries are removed so that all the forces go into rooting. The heart must not be buried: the growth point must be at ground level. After transplanting, be sure to spill the garden bed with water in order to compact the soil and straighten the roots.

If during the first days there are wilted seedlings, they should be removed to avoid rotting of the rest of the plants. In hot sun, strawberries should be shaded with a special net for a week after planting.

Strawberry care

Care consists of watering, mulching, protection from diseases and pests, fertilizing, preparing the plant for winter. To saturate the roots with oxygen, strawberries are loosened after rains 6-8 times per season. When aerial roots appear, the plant should be earthed.

To prevent overgrowth, you need to remove weeds and excess mustache every 10-12 days.

Watering

Water the strawberries early in the morning or in the evening - until 18:00. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is always moistened to a depth of 20-30 cm. This is especially important in the first days of planting and during the flowering period. With a lack of moisture, the berries will be small. However, excess water also negatively affects strawberries: it is affected by gray rot, the berries become watery and tasteless. It is recommended to use drip irrigation systems to maintain optimal humidity levels.

Mulching

Mulching with straw, mown grass, sawdust, peat or pine needles will help to facilitate the maintenance of the beds. The layer of mulch should be at least 5 cm. It prevents overheating and excessive nighttime cooling of the soil, protects the earth from drying out, the berries will not rot, and the earth will remain loose and without weeds.

During the fruiting period, if there is no mulch, to protect against gray rot, you can tie the berries to pegs or put them on supports: bricks, boards.

Top dressing

Repaired strawberries require fertilization. There are four obligatory dressings: the first - in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, the second - during the appearance of peduncles, the third - during flowering, and the fourth - in mid-August. In addition, in order to get a rich harvest, it is possible to additionally fertilize the soil, but not more often than once every two weeks. To replenish the need for a culture in nitrogen, an aqueous infusion of manure (1:10) or poultry manure (1:20) is added. Fertilizer is insisted for 5 - 7 days and the plants are watered with 1 liter under the bush. This must be done until the 20th of July. Then exclude - otherwise active growth will begin under cold weather. Then pour the mixture: on a bucket of water - 30 g of superphosphate, half a glass of ash. Insist for a day, add a liter at the root.

Hives update

Strawberries bear fruit well on one bed for 4 years, after which the culture must be transferred and renewed. In order not to be left without a crop, this can be done gradually: every year, replant a quarter of the plantation to a new place. With a carpet planting method, you will have to change the place every 2 years.

Preparing for winter

After the end of the main fruiting period in September, the bushes are pruned. This must be done in such a way that the plant has time to grow young leaves before frost. Remove old leaves, peduncles and whiskers. If they are infested with pests or diseases, it is better to burn them.

Strawberry propagation

Mustache

For mustache propagation, it is better to choose two-year-old bushes that worked well last season: healthy and strong, with large and tasty fruits. No more than 5 layers are taken from the mother liquor. In order to obtain strong shoots, the selected plants must not be allowed to bear fruit after the first wave of berries. You need to wait for the mustache to release the roots, dig them in. Only the first outlet is taken from the appendix, the rest are removed. Cutting off the process from the mother plant is possible only when at least 3, and preferably 5-7 leaves are formed. In August, the sockets are planted on a special distribution bed at a distance of 15 cm from each other. The next year they are transferred to a permanent place, the young growth will already yield a harvest.

By dividing the bush

Remontant strawberries, especially their beardless form, can multiply by dividing the bush. This can be done in spring or August. The plant must be large and have several points of growth. The selected bush is dug up, the roots are shaken off the soil and divided by hand into several parts so that each one has light roots and a heart. When planting, it is recommended to treat the plot with preparations that stimulate root formation.

Sowing seeds in open ground

Small-fruited varieties can be propagated with your own seeds: sprinkle them on top of the garden and water. Often such strawberries reproduce by self-seeding.

Diseases of remontant strawberries and their prevention

Like ordinary strawberries, the remontant variety is susceptible to disease, and is loved by garden pests such as weevils, slugs, nematodes, ants, and strawberry mites. Fruits can nibble on blackbirds and jays.

You can assess the health of the bush by the state of the foliage. It should be an even green color, not curl. If the leaves dry out, this is a sign of late blight. If they are covered with a white coating and curl, the plant is affected by powdery mildew. White or brown blotches signal fungal diseases.

Repaired strawberries bear fruit throughout the summer, so pesticides cannot be used against pests and diseases. For the prevention of diseases, spraying with an infusion of garlic or Bordeaux liquid is carried out, after the rain, the bushes are sprinkled with ash. Every 10 days, you can process the leaves with infusion of dandelion tops (for 10 liters of water 40o - 500 g of greens, leave for 2 hours).

One of the most common strawberry crop problems is gray mold. The berries become soft, covered with a mold-like bloom and rot. To prevent gray rot, plants are sprayed 2 - 3 times before flowering with iodine solution (dissolve 10 ml of iodine in 10 liters of water). This remedy is also effective for infestation of peduncles by a weevil.

Sprinkle potassium salt around the bushes to kill slugs. If the berries shrivel or become ugly, and the leaves curl and curl, the strawberries are affected by a nematode or strawberry mite, the diseased plants will have to be dug up and burned.

A variety that bears fruit all summer months and also in September. The berries are tasty, juicy, with a unique aroma. In order to accumulate fruits from a plant repeatedly throughout the season, it is necessary to be able to find seedlings, properly care for, fertilize, water, and prepare for the winter period. Such species are distinguished by the fact that they bring several crops. The word remontant denotes repeated flowering or repeated fruiting.

Features of the variety

The first collection takes place, usually in July, the other, the subsequent ones - in August, September. In terms of quantity, the second harvest will be more productive, which accounts for 70 - 80% of all fruits that were harvested during the summer season. The culture requires frequent watering, top dressing, since the load on it is greater than on ordinary strawberries, it becomes decrepit faster. Requires more careful care, constant replacement of old plants, but justifies all efforts with its repeated fruiting.

The classification is based on a number of features. For example - the function of kidney formation at different length of daylight hours: neutral and long. In ordinary strawberries, buds can occur only with a short daylight hours. This culture is born large-fruited. The berry reaches 75 grams by weight. There are types with and without a mustache. In the second option, the culture is more profitable from the point of view of saving the area for planting.

And also does not require constant processing. But it does not tolerate the heat, when there is a strong heat, it is shaded. The varieties with mustaches are unpretentious, drought-resistant. Their berries are large. But if the harvest is too large, the plant may die at the end of the season. Remontant varieties have much in common with ordinary strawberries: they remain under snow for the winter, do not shed their foliage, and are subject to the negative effects of the cold season.

Popular types of remontant berries

Before planting something on the site, you also have to choose a variety of strawberries. Explore the full characteristics of the berries, the possible pros and cons.

Each species has certain landing criteria and its own characteristics that should be taken into account. If you choose the right place for picking and properly care for the berry, then the harvest will turn out to be healthy and abundant.

Fresco and Elizabeth 2

A widespread variety, large-fruited, with good taste. Ripens early, has high fertility, is suitable for any region, relatively unpretentious. It has large bushes, reaching 25-30 cm. Slightly susceptible to disease. The soil for planting is fertilized in the following proportion: for 10 liters of humus - superphosphate (70 g), salt of nitric acid and potassium (30 grams each).

Elizabeth 2 grows in the south of Russia and its central part. The bushes are large, which begin to bear fruit in the spring and finish in the fall. It gives 3 harvests per season. The berries have a honey flavor. This variety successfully resists almost all types of pests and diseases. But whimsical to the composition of the soil, it requires special care. For "Elizabeth 2" a section of the southern or western direction is suitable. The soil is fed with ash or dolomite flour. To increase fertility, fertilizers are used: humus, peat, potassium, superphosphate.

Albion and Mara de Bois

The bushes are high, 18-20 cm, large fruits, have a strawberry flavor. Up to 4 crops can be harvested per season. It successfully resists many diseases. The culture bears fruit better on soil that is rich in humus. Organic and mineral fertilizers are added to the beds. If planting is done in the fall, fruiting begins the next year. When planting with a mustache, its latest date is September.

Mara de Bois reaches a height of 18-20 cm, the size of the berries ranges from medium to large, they are very tasty, aromatic. It is planted in the spring or summer months, depending on the location and climate. Loves warmth, light, due to which the berries acquire a special taste. The beds are covered with mulch, which consists of hay, sawdust, and straw. For successful cultivation, constant feeding is required. In more northern regions, the culture is grown under plastic.

Lyubava and Selva

Small size, medium-fruited. The taste is similar to strawberries. It tolerates frost well, has immunity from diseases and harmful insects. A slightly acidic or neutral soil with a large reserve is suitable nutrients... The beds should be well lit, sufficiently moist, slightly elevated.

Selva is characterized by high productivity. It tolerates frost well, is practically not susceptible to disease. It requires frequent watering, since in its absence the berries are significantly reduced in size. Loamy soil is preferred. For planting, fertilizers are used that have a mineral and organic origin.

Mahern and Wima Rina

Bushes of medium size, berries have a sweet and sour taste. If planted outdoors, it grows well in semi-dark areas. The harvest is high, but the fruits are gradually becoming smaller. It is not very common on the territory of Russia.

Vima Rina is distinguished by a small number of outlets. The berries are large, sweet and sour. Little susceptible to diseases and pests. Resistant to dry climates. It is planted at any time, but requires constant feeding. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are used - for reproduction, or with phosphorus, potassium - to increase the taste.

Buying seedlings for planting

Before purchasing, you need to inspect its appearance. Particular attention is paid to the formation of the bushes, the state of the leaves. They should be bright green and not have pronounced defects. The root system is already developed and reaches 6 cm.

The bud is in the center of the bush. It has a large size and a pink tint. The larger its size, the better the level of fruiting and more berries can be grown throughout the season.

Seat selection

The ideal side is considered to be a flat surface of the earth, or with a slight slope towards the south-west direction. Low-lying posts should be avoided, since the berry will constantly hurt, due to the coolness, a decrease in the level of yield is possible. On the south side, it is not recommended to plant seedlings, since early snow melting can lead to freezing of the bushes. You should not choose a very windy place, it is better to prefer one that is more protected from the winds.

Gardeners with extensive experience in growing strawberries use the 3-bed system, in which there is a division into several categories. On one there are bushes that are already bearing fruit, on the other there are plants that are not yet bearing fruit, the third is planted with new seedlings. Great attention should be paid to lighting.

A good harvest can be harvested if the place is well illuminated with light. The taste will be sweet, with a special aroma. In darkened areas, fruiting is much worse, the berries have a watery appearance, sour. The soil must meet certain requirements. It is better to choose soil with an admixture of clay. The site is cleared, the soil is mulched. Repaired strawberries produce good fruits in beds covered with sawdust and needles.

Such a mixture absorbs the sun's rays better, ripens quickly, maintains the required moisture level, and reduces the incidence of berries. A beneficial effect on the condition of strawberries is obtained if certain plants grew on this land earlier. When the plots were planted with dill, peas, and then oats and beans were planted, the fruits develop more actively. Having broken the squares with parsley next to it, you can drive away the slugs. Sage will speed up the maturation of the berries. Potatoes should be planted further away, as they have the same pests.

Strawberry picking process

Planting a plant is carried out in compliance with certain rules. Previously, the soil is dug, loosened, holes are made. The pits should be deep, but not more than 15-20 cm, a mixture containing organic fertilizer and ash is placed on their bottom. In bushes intended for picking, the lower leaves are first removed.

Then the seedlings, placed at the bottom of the hole, are covered with earth. Planting dates are calculated depending on the climate of the region. Enhanced growth of rhizomes and leaves is observed 2 times throughout the year, landing is carried out in the spring and towards the end of summer.

Once the seedlings are placed in the ground when the soil warms up to 12 ° C. The second planting is carried out in the last days of July and lasts until August 15. Spring picking is optimal, since the culture takes root well over the summer. Having planted strawberries around mid-May, the initial berries can be harvested in July, and fruiting will continue until September. For getting a large number harvest, you need to properly prepare the site. To lighten the soil structure, it needs to be fed with nutrients.

A mixture consisting of compost, ash, peat, sawdust is introduced into the soil. All this is laid down according to the following ratios per 1 part of the land: an equal share of compost, 10% ash, sawdust, 20% peat. Mineral fertilizers, consisting of essential nutrients, help to accelerate growth, prevent plant diseases. There are many schemes of the picking process. Which one to choose, each person assigns for himself.

Main types

1. 1. In rows. Strawberries are planted at a certain distance - about 30 cm. The gap is 70 cm. This scheme is suitable for species that can grow strongly, bring a mustache.
2. 2. Carpet fit. Suitable for varieties that do not give an outlet. The distance between bushes with small fruits is 25 cm, with large ones - about 40 cm.

Any summer resident chooses the best option for planting on his own. There are the following types of landing:

In rows. Plants are placed with a distance of 28-30 cm, a gap of 70 cm is left between them. This scheme is used for crops that grow strongly in breadth, throw out rosettes.

Carpet method. Typically, this scheme is used for mustache-free strawberries. Distance between seedlings: 20-25 cm for species with small fruits, 40 cm for large berries.

Strawberry care

The culture has the peculiarity that as soon as the first harvest is harvested, new fruits appear instantly. But the cultivation of this culture, courtship is a rather laborious process. Since the plant repeatedly gives berries, watering, feeding is required more in quantity and much more often. Before planting, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of the soil by removing the larvae of pests. For this purpose, the earth is watered with ammonia water.

To prevent the seedlings from getting sick, not being damaged by beetles, the following preventive measures are taken: - treatment with copper perchloric oxide to prevent infection with gray rot. Appears when the rainy period begins, affects the berries, forming a white bloom on them. Infected fruits must be destroyed; - treatment with manganese solution of low concentration or colloidal sulfur. Prevents powdery mildew.

Infected bushes are necessarily destroyed, a sign of the disease is brown, twisted leaves.

The plant needs frequent watering, especially when the weather is sultry, with daytime temperatures over 30 ° C. The soil should remain moist up to 5 cm deep. Weeding, loosening of the substrate is important, which must be done carefully so as not to hurt the root system, mustache. If the soil was previously mulched, loosening can be done less often.

Mulching with needles, not only provides soil moisture, oxygen saturation of the roots, improves taste. A widespread method is the use of a covering material, when the beds are covered with a black film, in the sections of which seedlings are planted. With the help of the coating, the required moisture is maintained, protection from weeds is created, that is, all conditions for the growth of the crop are provided.

Top dressing is done after watering. The herbal collection, consisting of nettle and wormwood, is infused for 7 days. The resulting infusion promotes good growth strawberries, as it contains many useful elements. As a top dressing, you can use bird droppings or mullein infusion.

After harvesting, you need to cut off old dry leaves, treat the beds with the help of special preparations for the prevention of diseases. Pruning of bushes can be done during the spring period, with the beginning of the gardening season. In autumn, strawberries are prepared for winter: feeding is done to maintain the culture, its high fertility of the future period; cut off at the beginning of autumn of all flowers; with the onset of a cold snap, the crown and whiskers are removed; plants are covered with straw when the temperature drops to minus mark.

Breeding methods

There are 2 main methods for a remontant look.

Mustache. In order to preserve valuable traits that belong to one particular variety, the crop is propagated using a mustache. In this case, the sockets that appeared first are used. This method does not imply the presence of special knowledge and skills. It's simple enough. No more than 5 whiskers remain on the bush, all the rest are removed. The most developed rosettes will be further used for breeding.

Division of bushes. The second method is to crush the planting so that all parts have roots. They are doing this throughout August, so that by the fall whole sections have been planted, they had time to settle down before the cold snap. These methods are more common because the use of seeds is a very painstaking process. At the same time, it must be recognized that the plants grown by this method are completely healthy.

Diseases and pests

The main problems and insects that can threaten the culture:

Gray rot. It is a fungal ailment that affects the plant when the weather is cool, rainy. It starts with the appearance of spots, which then turn into a fluffy bloom, which has a characteristic white color. To prevent it, treatment with copper chloride is performed. Shaken fruits are removed to prevent spread.

Powdery mildew. Has a damaging effect on leaves that curl unnaturally, take on a brown tint. They are removed manually, and then they are treated with a manganese solution of low concentration or with the help of colloidal sulfur. Brown spotting. It affects the leaves that change color and fly off. Copper chloride is used against this disease. Processing is carried out during the spring period, or already in the fall, when the crop is harvested.

Strawberry mite. The most dangerous one that damages the leaves. They become yellow color, curl, the plant stops growing, developing. For the fight, karbofos is used, which is sprayed on strawberries in the fall.

Aphid. Seedlings can be affected by this pest. It affects leaves, flower buds. Plants are irrigated with specially prepared ash solution, which is mixed with soap. To prevent diseases, damage to bushes by pests, preventive measures are taken in the spring and autumn months.

No harvest: what to do?

Failure to comply with the conditions, rules of growing and grooming may result in a loss of fruiting. Main signs and reasons:

1. 1. Weakening of flowering, reduction in the size of berries. Cultures have been depleted, their excessive growth has occurred. It is necessary to refresh the landing, while choosing the right place.
2. 2. In the spring months, there are no flowers on the bushes that were planted in the fall. The picking was done late, since in order to get the harvest in spring, the bushes had to be planted before August.
3. 3. No flowers, although the plant is productive. Insufficient watering or feeding, freezing in winter.
4. 4. No fruits. There was insufficient pollination, possibly due to rainfall or chemical treatments that scared the bees away. Spray with aromatic oil to attract pollinators.
5. 5. The berries dry up and fall off. The presence of pests, possibly strawberry weevil. It is necessary to loosen the soil in the beds, treat it with chemicals. The procedure should be performed 5 days before the appearance of the embryos.

If there was a darkening of the core of the flowers, then the effect of the cold may have affected and they froze.

How to grow a remontant berry at home?

The culture is grown not only on a plot or a summer residence, but also in an apartment. A container with seedlings is placed on the windowsill. It does not require a lot of effort, time, the main thing is to choose the right variety. They stop choosing the most unpretentious, shade-tolerant species. To get good seedlings using seed material, they prepare pots or boxes, nutrient soil, choose the optimal place. The soil should be loose in order to suppress moisture, maintain air exchange. For this purpose, turf, peat, sand are used.

The ground is pre-calcined at a temperature of 150-160 ° C. To get good seedlings, the seeds are soaked, placed on fabric strips for up to 48 hours. The planting material planted in the ground is watered and covered with polyethylene, placed where the place is well lit and heated. The earth is moistened regularly. If everything is done correctly, the sprouts will come out in 14-20 days. Watering continues, the room is ventilated daily.

Then the seedlings dive into other containers, which are placed on windows facing southeast. In winter, additional lighting is provided, constant feeding. At home, the plant can suffer from attack by spider mites and gray mold. For prophylaxis, garlic tincture is used, with the addition of laundry soap, red pepper. We must not forget about such a procedure as pollination, which is carried out by transferring pollen from a bud to another stem.

Growing a house is not always effective due to a violation of its technology:

• late planting makes it difficult to form a full-fledged crop;
• insufficient watering slows down or reduces fruiting;
• the pollination process is not carried out correctly;

If the temperature regime is violated or the required humidity indicators are not maintained, then this type of growing at home will not work.

Using a remontant strawberry variety

1. 1. Freezing. Frozen puree is obtained by grinding the fruits with sugar, placing portions in the refrigerator. You can ice it whole without adding anything, or cut into four parts, sprinkled with powder.

Repaired strawberries have moved from exotic to the category of traditional crops and are increasingly found in gardeners' beds. But many grow it in the usual way, ignoring the term "remontant". However, it has a number of distinctive features and is not an ordinary garden strawberry.

What are the features of remontant strawberries

To know how to properly grow remontant strawberries, you need to have an idea of ​​how they differ from regular strawberries (garden strawberries). Strawberries form a harvest once a year, as they lay fruit buds during a short daylight period (towards the end of summer). And its remontant variety is capable of more: it can form buds during long daylight hours (DSD varieties) or during a neutral day, when day and night have the same duration (NSD varieties).

The repairing strawberry (DSD) is designed to get a double harvest: the first berries appear at the end of June, then there will be a break and the second wave will take place in August-September. A more abundant return of berries is observed in the second period (60-90% of the total yield). Not the strongest bushes are depleted and, after fruiting, die with improper care.

Fruit buds can also be laid on the few mustaches of the first year of life, but if a film is used as mulch, then the mustache will not be able to take root and additional "income" cannot be obtained during cultivation.

Important! The lifespan of a remontant strawberry is only two years, which is much shorter than that of a regular garden strawberry.

Experienced gardeners are trying to select more resistant and strong varieties for growing, unpretentious in care.

The berries are not gigantic in size and weigh from 20 to 75 g, but the bush is abundantly strewn with them. Small-fruited varieties are more unpretentious: they can withstand both heat and frost. They do not give a mustache, due to which the remontant strawberry is greatly simplified. And caring for them is much easier.

When buying any remontant variety, you should consider

• they bear fruit all summer or only twice a season;
• what breeding methods are available;
• cultivation features;
• resistance to pests and diseases.

Hybrid varieties are convenient for growing remontant strawberries in the open field. They practically do not get sick and are rarely affected by pests, have a high yield, and are unpretentious in care. But since the hybrids (marked F1 on the package) were obtained by crossing different varieties, it is inappropriate to use them for subsequent reproduction: the yield will be extremely low.

Advice! If you want to feast on fresh berries in the fall, then remove the spring flower stalks. In the case when a mustache is needed for reproduction, the peduncles of the second harvest are removed.

Planting repair strawberries

This is the first and most important point in growing. A correctly selected place and soil, a mustache planted on time are the key to successful settlement of strawberries in the beds. If all the techniques are carried out correctly, and the care is thought out taking into account the characteristics of the remontant varieties, then success is guaranteed.

Preparing for landing

Growing remontant strawberries begins with soil preparation. Regardless of whether or not, the soil is prepared in advance by adding humus and superphosphate for digging (according to the instructions).

Strawberries prefer fertile, well-drained soil. If the soil is "heavy", then be sure to dilute it with peat, sand, humus and create drainage, otherwise the roots of the berry culture will rot.

In spring, planting of bushes occurs in mid-May, and in autumn - from mid-August to September. Planting late will kill the plants, as they will not have time to take root before the first frost.

Comment! Usually strawberries are planted in the fall: this way they will quickly grow and give the first harvest with proper care the next year.

Planted in spring, it will also bear fruit, but not as abundantly.

Landing features

The best way to arrange the mustache (future bushes) is the nesting method. With such a planting of remontant strawberries, care is greatly simplified. But some gardeners consider the most convenient carpet arrangement of plants at a distance of 20 × 20 cm. Growing, strawberries take up free space and during cultivation a carpet of red berries is obtained.

The ordinary method is easy to care for, when the distance between the bushes is 20-25 cm, and between the rads up to 70 cm. Plants planted in rows look more neat and easier to handle.

The landing sequence is as follows:

• according to the most convenient scheme, holes are dug to a depth of 10-15 cm;
• the depth can be more or less, based on the size of the seedling;
• inside the hole a "hump" is made of the earth, on which the roots are laid out and straightened;
• the hole is filled up, compacting the soil;
• the root collar or "heart" is placed at the level of the soil, it cannot be buried;
• the bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat, straw, sawdust.

Rotted manure or Agrovit and Fertik containing phosphorus and potassium can be added to the hole. A month later, the plants are fed with the microbiological preparation "Extrasol" and the stimulator "Novosil", which relieves stress in adverse weather conditions and helps the plant adapt during cultivation.

Comment! With an ordinary planting method along the rows, it is advisable to plant garlic, which will protect the berry crop from slugs.

Most often, remontant strawberries are propagated by a mustache. If the number of whiskers is insignificant, then you can divide the bush into several equal parts. A seed method of reproduction is also possible, but the seeds are small, sprout for a long time, the bush forms slowly. In addition, propagation by seeds does not guarantee the preservation of the varietal qualities of the mother plant.

Basic techniques for caring for DSD varieties

How to grow remontant strawberries? There is general rules care, typical for any strawberry-strawberry crops, but there are some peculiarities.

Loosening of the soil should be carried out regularly, especially after watering or rains. Loosening is necessary for air access to the plant roots. This technique is carried out carefully: you cannot damage the root system or the newly rooted mustache (if you need to preserve them). When mulching, loosening is not necessary: ​​the soil under the mulch layer remains moist and loose.

In the care of remontant strawberries, watering with warm, sediment water is very important. Such care is especially important during the period of fruit ripening, when the climate is very hot. The soil should not dry out, and moisture should remain 2-3 cm deep, otherwise the berries will be small or begin to crumble. If the surface is covered with mulch, then such frequent watering is not necessary.

Top dressing is most convenient to carry out during watering. To do this, grind the herbs of wormwood, yarrow and nettle, pour water and insist for 7 days until the composition ferments. This good food during the period of growing and caring for remontant strawberries, as it contains a set of trace elements necessary for the plant. An infusion of bird droppings (1:15) or an infusion of mullein (1:10) is useful.

Caring for a remontant strawberry also includes the removal of the mustache. There are varieties that almost do not give a mustache, while others "let" them in a variety. They weaken the bush, reduce the yield, and prevent the plant from growing stronger.

During the growing season, growers regularly remove excess shoots. If necessary, leave 1-2 strong young specimens from the mother plant in order to renew the plantation next year. Reddening leaves are also removed, which helps to rejuvenate the bush during cultivation and is one of the methods for caring for a remontant culture.

Advice! Since the plantings are renewed every 2 years, the strawberry bushes must be placed freely so that there is room for the growth of the mustache, which will replace the mother plant.

During cultivation, remontant strawberries are not avoided by pests and diseases. Most often, berry culture is sick

• gray rot, which is a fungal infection and "attacks" bushes in cool and humid weather;
• powdery mildew, similar to a white bloom in the form of a cobweb and also related to mushroom "misfortunes";
• brown spot - a fungal disease that affects old leaves, on which bright brown spots are clearly visible.

When signs of the disease are noticed, the infected foliage or berries are removed, if necessary, they are treated with chemicals. Of the pests, strawberries most often suffer from strawberry mites, which are removed with Karbofos solution after harvesting.

Warning! Insecticides should not be applied to flowering plants.

The first treatment falls on the formation of young foliage, the second is carried out during the formation of inflorescences and the third is possible after harvesting. The drugs need to be changed, since both pests and microorganisms can become addicted to them.

When growing varieties of DSD in the open field, the second crop does not always have time to "give up the berries" in full. Colds set in and the fruiting plant goes under the snow with berries. Plants remain unprepared for winter, and it is no longer possible to harvest the harvest remaining on the branches.

In the northern regions, remontant strawberries are grown in protected ground (under a film), so the first fruiting takes place earlier and the second berry wave has time to ripen. Such care is called "growing in tunnels", when in August breathable covering material is pulled over the beds with the help of arcs. Due to the heat, fruiting stretches until October.

How to prepare a berry culture for winter

How to care for remontant strawberries before the onset of cold weather? Autumn care and caring for the red berry in the fall are no less important than during the growing season. The following activities are carried out:

1. Plants tired during the summer period need to be fed using complex fertilizers. This will give the bushes strength for spring growth and facilitate subsequent maintenance.
2. At the end of summer, pruning is carried out from remontant strawberries of all peduncles. Before the onset of cold weather, the berries will not ripen, and the plant uses forces to form them.
3. Before frost, the soil around the holes is loosened, mixing with a mulching layer. Then sprinkle on top with a fresh layer of mulch: rotten foliage, humus, sawdust.
4. After the onset of cold weather, pruning of remontant strawberries is carried out, in which the leaves are completely removed, leaving the petioles at a height of 2 cm from the soil surface.
5. In the same period, the plantation is sheltered for wintering by spruce branches, foliage, and mown grass. This is an important point in the care, which allows the repairing bushes and roots not to freeze in the frost.

Such preparation techniques relate to the peculiarities of growing remontant strawberries. They will help the berry culture to survive the winter, and in the spring to start the second season with renewed vigor. During the spring, the berry culture will grow up, get stronger and can once again please its owners with a harvest of fragrant berries.

Cultivation and care, pruning of remontant strawberries in the fall can be seen in the video:

Basic techniques for caring for NSD varieties

Caring for remontant strawberries of NSD varieties has its own characteristics. To begin with, the bushes will have to be changed annually, they are not able to bear fruit for years. Since it gives berries throughout the season from spring to autumn, the bush is aging quickly. And next year, an inexperienced gardener, when growing a remontant variety, will find small berries on the bushes of the second year, which is not associated with leaving.

Therefore, it is worth considering another option, how to care for NSD remontant strawberries:

• in August, young plants of a certain litter are planted (or several varieties at will): before winter they will root well and get stronger;
• after planting, if there are flowers or ovaries on the bushes, they should be removed, which will ensure the next year's harvest;
• the remontant culture bears fruit from May until frost, so that fresh berries will be on the table for the entire growing season;
• in August, a mustache-sprout is taken from each mother bush and a new berry plantation is created;
• old plants are removed after the fruiting period ends (on the eve of frost);
• young bushes mulch, and on top are covered with straw, spruce branches, foliage, so that wintering is comfortable.

Important! Never leave bare ground under strawberry bushes.

It is necessary that the soil be mulched. For the winter, you can cover it with siderates grown over the summer, which is another care technique.

Productive and profitable cultivation of remontant strawberries is possible with timely care, pruning, mulching, and preparation for winter.

Agrotechnics of care when growing on a trellis

It has become popular to grow remontant strawberries on a trellis. It is decorative, unusual, and the harvest can be harvested as on plantations. Near the gazebo, along the path, near the hedge, it will come in handy, but this option requires special care.

The technology for growing remontant strawberries on a trellis is as follows:

1. Use a polypropylene climbing net (available at any garden center). It is durable, stretches and attaches well, and is cut to the desired length.
2. After fixing the trellis, a row up to 40 cm deep is dug along it and bushes are planted every 50 cm.
3. After the flowering of the first rosettes, a mustache is formed, which is lifted onto a trellis. They are fixed and 5-6 whiskers are left on each mother plant. So the hedge turns green, the mustache begins to bloom and bear fruit. It turns out a fragrant red wall of berries.
4. In autumn, one rosette is rooted between the old bushes in order to "revive" the trellis next year. Young plants will give new whiskers that will grow and form a new living wall.
5. During the growth period, top dressing is important, since the berry culture spends energy not only on the formation of fruits, but also on the growth of rosettes. As a top dressing, special fertilizers for fruit and berry crops, based on humic acids, vitamins, and trace elements, are suitable. The lack of nutrients is noticeable in the condition of the strawberry.
6. Watering is carried out after picking berries in the morning. It should be regular, since moisture is needed no less than the introduction of nutrients.

In "trellis" strawberries, berries have excellent taste and excellent presentation, they do not so often get sick with gray rot, they are not contaminated with soil. In one place, remontant varieties are grown on a trellis for no more than 5 years. Then you should change the place to a new one and resume planting. With this kind of care, there will always be a wall entwined with greens and red berries on the site.

The cultivation of remontant strawberries “in columns” or dense polyethylene bags with holes is practiced. The appearance of such a column is very unusual and decorative. But this technology and rules of care should be studied separately or talked with gardeners who grow strawberries in this way.

It is advisable for strawberry lovers to try DSD and NSD varieties on their site, try growing on a trellis in order to enjoy the harvest of berries and the decorative design of the site all year round.

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