Tbilisi in two days: a review of an independent trip. Georgia in three days Holy Trinity Cathedral, or Tsminda Sameba

Updated 04/07/2019

An article for those who want to know what to see in Tbilisi in 2 days. Below is a route that will cover almost all the main attractions of the Georgian capital. To say that two days for Tbilisi will not be too short. Since you are reading this particular post, it means that the specified amount of time is allotted to the city. One thing pleases: in two days you will see much more than in a day.

The site contains material on the one-day route in Tbilisi. Something borrowed from it, but in general, these routes differ quite a lot from each other.

Itinerary in Tbilisi for 1 day

The avenue starts from Rustaveli Square, where there are many expensive shops and restaurants. If you move down Rustaveli Avenue, the first interesting attraction will be the city opera and ballet theater (it is interesting to look at it from the outside, but it is better to visit one of the performances, maybe on your next visit to Tbilisi).


Dry Bridge and House of Justice

Further along the avenue is the 19th century Kashveti Church, and opposite it is the building that previously housed the Parliament of Georgia. At this place you can stop and look around: in addition to the church and parliament, the large park on April 9 goes to the left, and the street on April 9 to the right. If you turn off the avenue towards the park, then behind it you will find the Dry Bridge over the Kura River. This is one of the most famous places where you can find some pretty interesting and unique things. There is also a unique building of the House of Justice, which resembles a brood of giant fungi that grew after the rain.

Mount Mtatsminda

If you go from the intersection to the right, then soon you will come to Chonkadze Street, where the city funicular station is located (read more about it). On this interesting type of transport, you can climb to, where the following attractions are located:

  • Bombora Amusement Park is a great place for families with children. Here you can find several attractions, green areas and a 62-meter Ferris wheel;
  • the pantheon of writers and public figures of Georgia - a necropolis where Georgian national writers, poets, scientists and artists are buried;
  • the upper station of the funicular with the Funicular restaurant;
  • a large green park, ideal for walking in hot weather.



It will take several hours to get to know Mtatsminda, and after descending the mountain, return to Rustaveli Avenue. After all, there is what to see in Tbilisi in 2 days is not just possible, but necessary. In the third house on Shota Rustaveli Avenue there is a large complex in which several museums are located at once. In addition to classical expositions about the history, culture and art of Georgia, there is a department called "Museum of Soviet Occupation". Whether to visit the museum or not is up to you. Just don't forget about the time. The avenue will lead you to Freedom Square, which is included in (for 1,2, 3 and so on days). The Pushkin Square and the statue of St. George, the patron saint of the country, are of the greatest interest here.

Peace Bridge and Rike Park

If we were to discuss what to visit in Tbilisi in one day, we would go further, deep into the Old City. But, having a lot of time, we will not leave the boundaries of the new center of Tbilisi on the first day. First, from Freedom Square you can go along Leonidze Street to Chonkadze Street and the already familiar funicular station. Secondly, along Pushkin Street you can move to the also familiar Dry Bridge. But it is much more interesting to pass the winding streets to the east to.

The futuristic work that adorned the city in 2010 is equipped with an original canopy made of metal and glass (and at night the bridge pleases the audience with illumination of 30 thousand light bulbs). The bridge leads to the interesting modern Rike Park, where there are many art objects, for example, a huge grand piano.

Deserter market

If you have time left (but the clock is no more than 17:00), hurry to the most famous market in the Georgian capital -. This place is definitely included in the list of what you need to see in Tbilisi in 2 days. We will go to the market by metro from the Avlabari station, located near Rike Park, to the Vokzalnaya Ploschad station (Station Square). By the way, the road to this station goes uphill and the laziest ones are better off returning to Freedom Square to the metro station of the same name and going to the market from there.

The deserter market is located just at the exit from the subway near the station, between the tracks and the Dynamo stadium. The shopping areas here are the largest in the whole of Tbilisi, and therefore you can buy almost anything at Desertirka.

  1. Clothes from Chinese or Turkish manufacturers.
  2. Household goods in all variety.
  3. Electronics and household appliances.
  4. The most important thing is a huge amount of food (vegetables, fruits, nuts, cheeses and sweets) and spices (adjika, khmeli-suneli, Svan salt).

Walking around the bazaar is usually seriously exhausting. Therefore, in the evening of the first day, it is worth having a good rest. This can be done both at home or in a hotel over a bottle of local wine, or in one of the many New Towns on Rustaveli Avenue. In the evening program, I advise you to start from your place of residence, since from the Station Square metro you can get to any tourist center of Tbilisi.

Route in Tbilisi for 2 days

Tbilisi opens up much better in two days than in a day. Therefore, we will spend the entire second day within the Old City. I advise you to start the route of the second day from the main church of Tbilisi - (the second name is the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity). To do this, you need to arrive at the Avlabari metro station.


After getting to know the temple, take a course to the southwest and through the European square you will find yourself in the old one, from which the city began. Here you can see a small church, and next to it - an equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasal. The Metekhi area itself is very small, but it literally breathes history.


Metekhi district

The real Old City begins behind the Metekhi Bridge. You can give advice on how to explore it, but it's best to just wander here and feel the real Georgian flavor. As the saying goes, the best way to get to know the city is to get lost in it. And the landmarks for you will be the slopes of the Sololaki ridge, on which the ancient one stands. If you still have doubts about what to see in Tbilisi in 2 days, then your path lies just in the fortress. But first, find the main temple of Tbilisi - Sioni in the Old City (it is easy to find a church - just from the Metekhi bridge, facing the district of the same name and with your back to the Old City, turn left and walk a few tens of meters along the embankment). This ancient church was historically considered the main one in the city, but after the construction of the grandiose Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, it lost its former glory.


Narikala fortress

Having walked a lot along the side streets of Old Tbilisi, we will go to the foot of Sololaki. The best way to climb to the fortress is along Orbiri Street, which will lead you to the main entrance of Narikala. Here you can buy souvenirs and go to the Church of St. Nicholas. I also strongly advise you not to spare your efforts and climb to the upper castle, which lies in ruins. From here, from the top of the ridge, there is an impressive view of the city (especially good photographs are obtained from the tower with a large cross). You can go down from the top along another road, focusing on a high monument. One of the symbols of Tbilisi stands next to the upper station of the cable car, where you can descend back to Rike Park, which you visited on the previous day.

Tbilisi Botanical Garden

If you decide to go down on foot, then be sure to look into. It is clean, beautiful and quiet here, and on a hot day it is also cool. It is worth looking at the waterfall in the garden, although if you wish, you can skip the entrance fee and see another waterfall (I will mark it on the map below) located nearby. The perfect end of the day will be a return to the Old Town and a visit to the famous Tbilisi sulfur baths. Here, in

Tbilisi. This city is of no small importance for Georgia: it is the political center of the country, the cultural capital, as well as a city literally filled to the brim with sights and history of Georgia, which attract tourists from all countries.

Let's admit right away: Tbilisi is worthy of a week of active tourism. However, if you are limited in time, but want to maximally immerse yourself in the rhythm of life of this city, then it is best for you to use the tips given in this article.

Flights to Tbilisi - find the best prices on the calendar:

Where to live?

The comfort of visiting the Georgian capital depends on the place of residence. It is best to rent an apartment or stay in a hotel near Avlabari metro stations or Freedom Square: the Didube railway station and bus station are nearby, and the Old Town with its cozy streets and restaurants is located within walking distance from these areas. To search for hotels, we recommend using the service roomguru, which compares the cost of hotels in different booking systems:

We suggest you give preference to the budget option: all the same, you are not destined to stay in the room for a long time - most likely you will only need it as an overnight stay. Average cost of a night stay: $ 15-20 (GEL 30-40).

Examples of budget accommodation in a suitable area: Patio Hostel and the modest King Edward Hotel or Askana Hotel. We recommend that you turn your attention to the private sector.

However, if you are used to luxury and comfort, there is a hotel for you in Tbilisi, for example, Tbilisi Marriott Hotel.

What to do?

We remember that we have very little time, and there are a lot of attractions and interesting things, so we will try to plan our route so as to have time to capture the maximum of impressions.

DAY 1

Breakfast

For breakfast we go to the Samikitno chain cafe (the most central of them is located on the Meidan square), there is this cafe in other parts of the city. Samikitno is wildly quoted by tourists. Here you can taste excellent khachapuri and drink it with a cup of invigorating coffee. Average check: 20 lari (9 dollars).

By the way, we recommend that you pay attention to this cafe not only as a place for breakfast. There is an excellent selection of Georgian dishes, you might want to try them all at dinner accompanied by excellent local Saperavi. And the food is very tasty! Before ordering, we recommend that you check the size of the portions, which in Samikitno are not at all small.

Journey

Putting on comfortable shoes and refreshed with Georgian cuisine, we set off for an overview of the sights of Tbilisi. It is worth starting the journey from Mount Mtatsminda, for climbing which it is best to use the funicular, built at the beginning of the twentieth century. The cost of the trip is 0.5 GEL.

At the top of Mtatsminda you will find an amusement park and a Ferris wheel. You can see the whole city from a bird's eye view. Awesome sight! After a walk in the park, you can get a little hungry, so we recommend that you visit the cafe near the funicular. There is a huge selection of sweets, delicious coffee or tea of ​​your choice, and also serves Lagidze Waters (taste from childhood! Remember?).

If you don't find enough sweets for a full-fledged lunch, take a look at the restaurant "By the Funicular". It has a more European look than the restaurants in the Old Town, but the food is great! It is symbolic if you order a shish kebab and a bottle of "Saperavi" to it: to taste Georgian food, being at the highest point in Tbilisi - what could be more beautiful. In cold weather, it will not do without chacha, the strength of which, it seems, is about 70 degrees, so it burns the throat pleasantly. Average check: 60 lari or 28 dollars.

On the funicular you can also get to the Pantheon (middle intermediate station) - the burial place of famous public figures of Georgia - writers, poets, playwrights. A. Griboyedov is also buried here.

You can get to Mtatsminda by buses No. 90, 124 to the stop "Mtatsminda Park" or by the metro station "Rustaveli" or "Freedom Square".

Narikala

The next point of our journey is the ancient city fortress - Narikala, built high on a rock on the Sololak ridge. The function of the fortress was exclusively defensive, and at the moment it is one of the main attractions of Tbilisi. You can get to the Narikala fortress in different ways. If you like to walk for a long time and a lot, then you can use the tourist route from Mtatsminda Park to Narikala Fortress, which is about 5 km long. The walk is not a loved one, but it is worth the effort. On the way, you will have magnificent views, and besides, this path can be passed completely free of charge =)

But if you still save time, which we already have so little, then we recommend using the cable car, opened in 2012. It will take you from Rike Park through the Kura directly to the Sololak ridge for only 1 GEL.

We continue our journey

While in the Old City, we advise you to visit Anchiskhati (Shavteli St., 9): the oldest church in Georgia (built in 522). If you're lucky, you can listen to the singing of the best choir of Georgia. The best way to get to Anchiskhati is by buses No. 2,25,31,37,39,43 (Baratashvili stop).

Afterwards, we propose to go to inspect the Metekhi temple - one of the oldest churches in Tbilisi, located on the street of the same name. It was built in the 12th century on the site of the palace of the rulers, which was built by the founder of the city, Vakhtang Gorgasal. You can get to it by metro: you need to get off at the Avlabari station, but the best way is to walk. For a walk, it is preferable to choose the Bridge of Peace, the hallmark of modern Tbilisi, which symbolizes the continuity between the Old and New City.

Being on the other side of the Kura River, we advise you to go to see one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world - Tsminda Sameba, located on the hill of St. Elijah. Its height is 75.5 meters and its width is 77 meters, which makes the temple the most prominent building in the entire city. You can get to it using buses No. 91 and 122 (stop Sameba).

Next is the Old Town. It is worth returning to it. It is impossible to get to know the spirit of Tbilisi without walking through the small old streets, on which there are two-storey houses with obligatory grape terraces. Artists and artisans work in these houses. We suggest starting your return with the Tbilisi sulfur baths, the fame of which is thundering all over the world. They are located in the Abanotubani area, the nearest metro station is Freedom Square.

Dinner

The day in Tbilisi passes imperceptibly - now it is already evening. We recommend that you dine at the Tavaduri restaurant, which is located near Mushtaidi Park, the exact address is Vladimer Maikovski St., 2/4. Perhaps this restaurant is not the closest to your place of residence, but it certainly deserves to devote an evening to it.

Initially, it seems that you will have to leave all your savings in this restaurant, because everything inside looks luxurious and chic, the well-trained staff are helpful and friendly. Don't worry, the prices are very reasonable.

Feel free to inquire about your waiter's dishes. Believe me, he knows not only the recipe for each dish, but is also ready to recommend a sauce or wine that is ideal for your chosen dish.

Walk - and go home

Walking around Tbilisi, you will no longer be able to maintain the fast pace of the walk. Therefore, it is best to get back home by taxi or first take a leisurely walk along the river, enjoying the coolness of the evening. After that, you should go to rest: tomorrow you are going to explore the outskirts of Tbilisi, so you will need strength.

Day 2

Breakfast

We get up early and for breakfast we go to the nearest cafe or all to the same "Samikitno". Do not be afraid of small shops with hot bread and pastries, of which there are enough in the Old Town and in the city center. Here you will be served strong delicious tea or coffee, brewed in front of you, and fresh hot pastries - cakes or khachapuri. In addition, such a breakfast will not take long, but it will give you the energy you need for the upcoming trip.

To the outskirts

It is impossible to imagine the complete picture of the outskirts of Tbilisi without visiting Mtskheta, the ancient capital of Georgia. The best way to get to Mtskheta is by minibus, which can be taken at the Didube bus station (the cost of the trip is 1.5 GEL). Travel time is 25 minutes.

The city of Mtskheta is well restored and looks very nice. It is best to visit the Samtavro Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, built on the site of a holy cedar tree.

From Mtskheta it is best to go to the Jvari temple "where, merging, they rustle, embracing like two sisters, the streams of Aragva and Kura, there was a monastery ...". Remember the school classics? Yes, M.Yu. Lermontov "Mtsyri".

And the monastery is still there. Jvari is the main attraction of Mtskheta, but in fact it is a separate object. Jvari is a symbol of Georgian temple architecture and a must-see. The best way to get to Jvari from Mtskheta is by taxi (cost 20 GEL round trip).

Dinner

A walk around Mtskheta and a trip to Jvari will take a lot of your energy. We advise you to dine at the Salobie restaurant located on the Tbilisi bypass road. A juicy and tasty barbecue costs only 12 lari (about 6 dollars) there.

After barbecue we return to the city and arrange "free time" for ourselves. We recommend that you stroll around the Old Town in a relaxed mode, buy souvenirs and be sure to drop by the local wineries. Here you can not only buy wine, but also taste them. They will tell you in detail when and by whom the grapes were harvested, why one wine is stronger or softer, and with what dishes it is worth using this or that drink. It seems that visitors come here to drink and chat more than to buy wine, but almost no one leaves without shopping.

The rest of the time, allow yourself to spend on shopping, which we will talk about a little later.

Dinner

The day in Tbilisi passes imperceptibly - now it is already evening. We recommend that you dine at the Pastorali restaurant in the Old Town (Erekle II St.). Khinkali are especially good in this establishment. Average check: 30 lari (15 dollars).

Shopping

It is best to go shopping in Tbilisi at the end of the trip: it is extremely inconvenient to carry bags of clothes with you all the time. The East Point shopping center, located on the Kakheti highway, was recognized as the best place for shopping. You can get to it by taking a taxi on Freedom Square (the cost is 8-12 GEL, depending on how you bargain with the taxi driver). The price tag for clothes is not bad: T-shirts cost from 10 to 40 GEL, jeans - from 30 to 200 GEL, bikes - up to 50 GEL. A pleasant shopping experience should be the final chord of a two-day stay in the Georgian capital.

BUT! If you have a little time before departure from the early morning, we recommend visiting the central market of Tbilisi, which is located at the railway station (ask the taxi driver, he will definitely take you there, and maybe he will recommend the "best seller"). At the market, you should definitely buy churchkhella - of your choice: sour, sweeter, with walnuts or hazelnuts, local cheeses - suluguni or guda (it is better to take everything and more), spices and herbs. Believe me, Georgian dishes are delicious precisely because they are made from local products.

If you have just started planning your trip to Tbilisi, then most likely the list above is just a meaningless set of letters for you. Below will be a photo and description of each place.

If you don’t want to understand the intricacies of Tbilisi streets, you can book a tour. The guide will take you to the most interesting corners of the city, and will also tell you about them on the way.

Sightseeing Tbilisi, day 1

Abanotubani

Sulfur Baths area in Tbilisi

Coordinates: 41.688233, 44.811047

Abanotubani is a quarter in the center of Tbilisi, famous for the complex of sulfur baths. According to legend, King Vakhtang Gorgasali hunted a pheasant in the area and found a hot spring. To celebrate, I decided to build a city around the source and move the capital here from. This is how Tbilisi was born.

The area of ​​sulfur baths is usually offered to end the walk in order to take a steam bath after a busy day.

Reviews about the baths are different, decide for yourself whether you want it, for a start you can just look at the round roofs and drink pomegranate juice in the Heydar Aliyev square.

Hot water in this place rises from the bowels of the earth from a depth of 2500 meters. They say it is good for the skin.

The saunas have common rooms for 3-4 GEL per hour (75-100 rubles) and separate rooms with pools from 30 to 150 GEL(750-3700 r), depending on the bath, mekise services (massage or scrub) - from 10 lari (250 r).

Canyon with a waterfall in the center of Tbilisi


Houses on the cliff and a spiral staircase to the city
Waterfall in the center of Tbilisi

Coordinates: 41.68674, 44.80903

Behind the sulfur baths, the Legvtakhevi gorge begins. We reach the end along the Tsavkisistskali river (try to pronounce it) and see a waterfall right in the center of Tbilisi.

Vakhtang Gorgasali Square

Georgian khinkali in Samikitno

Coordinates: 41.689829, 44.808903

All paths lead to Vakhtang Gorgasali Square (aka Meidan or Maidan). Here we have the inscription I love Tbilisi.

〠 Machakhela(Samikitno) - a popular cafe on the square, 2 floors and a balcony with a view. I used to recommend it because it was tasty and cheap. Now it has completely deteriorated. The portions are small, wait a long time, the food is not tasty. Can i have a drink citric lemonade on the balcony, but it's better to eat elsewhere.

Shardeni street

The beginning of Shardeni street

Coordinates: 41.690333, 44.808641

Pedestrian short street of old Tbilisi with cafes, restaurants and hookah bars. It got its name in honor of a French traveler who visited Tbilisi.

In summer it loses its charm due to the crowds of tourists. If you don’t see it, you won’t lose much, but you can go and see it. Prices in a cafe on Shardeni are high.

Metekhi Church


We go up to the church

Coordinates: 41.690102, 44.811155

We leave from Shardeni, cross the river over the bridge and go up to the observation deck to the Metekhi church (there is King Gorgasali on horseback).

From the observation deck we see the Narikala fortress and the houses of the old city - in 10 minutes we will be at the top.

Peristsvaleba Monastery and Darejan Palace

Coordinates: 41.691675, 44.812271

On the territory of the Sachino palace (aka Darejan) there is now a small nunnery.

This place is located on a rock next to the Metekhi church. From the walls there is a pleasant view of the city (Europe Square, Peace Bridge, old Tbilisi), and they also have a chic round balcony.

Europe square and cable car


Cable car Park Rike - Narikala

Coordinates: 41.692011, 44.810719

Opening hours of the cable car: 11.00-23.00

We cross the road to Europe Square. We see the beautiful Rike Park, but we will come back here later. Now our goal is the lower station of the cable car.

Narikala fortress

Coordinates: 41.688044, 44.808498

From the upper station of the cable car, follow the sign to the Narikala fortress. This defensive structure at the end of the Sololak Range was built more than 1500 years ago.

The entrance to the fortress is free, the views of Tbilisi are wonderful both during the day and at sunset, when the lights are turned on. The highest point is near the cross over the fortress, we go there.

You can get to Narikala not only by cable car, but also on foot, climbing the mountain along a cobbled street from Meydan Square.

There is also a staircase leading from the Botanical Garden to the western wall of the fortress. From this staircase there is a beautiful view of the Tabori temple and the Abanotubani area.

Statue Mother Kartli

Coordinates: 41.688214, 44.804565

From the Narikala Fortress, we walk to the statue of Mother Georgia, on the way we stop at the observation decks.

The Mother Kartli monument was built on the top of the Sololak hill 60 years ago in honor of the 1500th anniversary of Tbilisi.

At first the statue was wooden, then aluminum, in the 90s it was replaced by the one that towers over Tbilisi today.

In her right hand, Mother Kartli holds a sword to meet those who came with the war, and in her left hand - a cup of wine for guests who came in peace.

Staircase to Sololaki

Coordinates: 41.688597, 44.804299

From the statue of the mother of Kartli we go down the stairs to the old district of Sololaki, periodically stopping at the observation decks. Here it seems that you can reach the roofs of Tbilisi churches with your hand.

Sololaki


Residential building in Sololaki area

Going down the stairs, we find ourselves on Betlemi street in the Sololaki area.

Sololaki is once an elite district in the very center of Tbilisi, which has been actively developed since the end of the 19th century. Now most of the buildings, which are more than 100 years old, are in a deplorable state and, if admirable, are mixed with sadness.

I am glad that there are scaffolding - there is hope that Sololaki will be restored.

It is better to walk around the Sololaki area with a guide (for example, they are praised) in order to learn the history of the houses and the people who built them.

On your own, without knowing the details, you will just see old houses. The doors of some of them hide the stunningly beautiful front doors.

There are several iconic cafes in Sololaki. For example, Pur Pur (cool interior), Rachin dukhan (basement where delicious mushrooms are served on ketsi)

Front Kaleidoscope

Coordinates: 41.689937, 44.805739

There is a sign on the building Gallery 27

The front door is open with Mon to Sun from 11.00 to 20.00

Old wooden private house in the Sololaki area, remarkable both in itself and in its front door with stained-glass windows. A magical place.

It is better to come in the morning in sunny weather, when the patterns cover the entire floor. After lunch, the drawings are not so bright, but still beautiful. Inside there is a gift shop.

Frida Kahlo in Tbilisi

This summer, pictures from Tbilisi with a portrait of Frida Kahlo began to appear on instagram this summer.

People ask where to look, where to run.

A picture of the Mexican artist can be found on the wall in the entrance of the Check Point Hotel in Sololaki.

Coordinates: 41.689005, 44.806361

Freedom Square

Coordinates: 41.693419, 44.801507

Freedom Square is noisy and lively, Tbilisi is completely different here.

We do not linger and go down the Pushkin Street, we look at the masonry left over from ancient times.

Shavteni and Gabriadze Theater

We see a monument to the lamplighter and a sculpture of dancing Georgians ( 41.696677, 44.806714 ).

If you wish, you can go to the Baratashvili Bridge. There are also sculptures sitting on it, and also a view of the House of Justice (the National Bank of Georgia is also there).

If we do not go to the bridge, then we immediately turn onto Shavteni street, coordinates: 41.696031, 44.806571 .

Here puppet theater Rezo Gabriadze, hostels, cafes, ripe grapes hanging overhead (in autumn).

Pay attention to the tower of the theater. Every hour a golden-winged angel appears from the painted doors and knocks on the bell with a hammer.

Daily at 12.00 and 19.00 you can see a mini-performance in the tower - "The Cycle of Life".

The cafe on the first floor of the theater is often advised to visit. Prices for Tbilisi are high, and tea with donuts is available elsewhere. IMHO, the cafe can be safely skipped.

Tickets for performances (in Georgian with subtitles) at the puppet theater cost from 10 to 30 GEL($ 4-12) you can watch the repertoire and order in advance on the theater's website

Bridge of peace


Bridge of Peace in Tbilisi

Coordinates: 41.693065, 44.808319

We reach the pedestrian Bridge of Peace, go along it to the Rike Park.

The Bridge of Peace was designed by an Italian architect and built during the time of Saakashvili, but this bright glass structure still annoys some townspeople.

The new authorities even intended to demolish the Bridge of Peace, but they never realized their idea (it's good!)

Rike Park


Rike Park, President's Palace and Two Trumpets

Coordinates: 41.694100, 44.809518

Rike Park is pleasant all year round. There are playgrounds, benches, walking paths. The area is completely pedestrianized.

If you want to see flowering bushes in early spring or late autumn, when Tbilisi looks bare, you can go here - there is always some kind of greenery and flowers in the park.

And there is also a monument to Ronald Reagan. The 40th President of the United States sits on a bench looking at the President's Palace. You can sit down next to me.

Two pipes in Tbilisi


Kind of cute pipes, huh?

Right under the President's Palace, one can observe "chicken thighs" - a futuristic cultural complex that was built long ago, but never opened to visitors.

Just today, one intolerant woman wrote a comment about the pipes in my blog: "This is some kind of ugliness built by Saakashvili, which has not yet become a theater or something like that."

In general, not everyone likes the building, the sense of perception of beauty is different for people. My opinion does not coincide with the opinion of the author of the comment.

Palace of the President

The presidential palace was also built under Saakashvili. Onlookers are not allowed into the territory, but you can look at the building while walking in Rike Park.

Lookout over Rike


View from the observation deck over Rike Park

Coordinates: 41.693126, 44.811551

We walk in Rike Park, climb the stairs to the observation deck.

Next to the lookout is Cafe Flowers (a pink house with white stairs). Here you can order wine with cheese and enjoy the view of Rike Park and Mount Mtatsminda. A glass of wine - from 7 GEL ($ 3), a bottle - from 23 GEL ($ 10).

Monument to Mimino


Monument to Mimino by Tsereteli near Avlabari metro station

Coordinates: 41.69187, 44.81564

There is a monument to the heroes "Mimino" at the Avlabari metro station. Author - Zurab Tsereteli. On the way to the Sameba temple, we taxied to the monument to our favorite heroes (for some, not very beloved).

Tsminda Sameba Cathedral

Coordinates: 41.697516, 44.816543

The Church of the Holy Trinity is the main cathedral of Tbilisi, visible from any point.

The history of the construction of the cathedral on the site of the former Armenian cemetery is quite scandalous (the Armenian diaspora was against it, they can be understood).

The cathedral is interesting both for its external appearance and for its interior decoration. Firstly, the building is gigantic, and secondly, real precious stones can be found on the icons.

There is a cafe on the territory Lagidze water- here delicious creamy lemonade and Adjarian khachapuri are almost the same as in Adjara (almost, but not so - they make it tastier in Batumi, but lemonade is really delicious).

Leselidze

The route of the first day does not include the tourist street Kote Abkhazi (aka Leselidze). This is the longest street running through all of old Tbilisi from Freedom Square to Maidan.

You will get to Leselidze in any case, even if you do not plan to do so, because all the roads of the old city lead one way or another here.

Route in Tbilisi for 2 days

We learned what to see in Tbilisi in one day, and now more about the second day. Today we will look into “Tbilisi Europe” and go for a walk along the avenues along the route:

Sights of Tbilisi on the map:

David Agmashenebeli Avenue


Agmashenebeli avenue

On the second day, you can come to the metro station Marjanishvili and walk along David Agmashenebeli Avenue to the Dry Bridge.

Near Marjanishvili you can eat the most delicious ice cream in the city in a cafe Luca polare per 5 GEL(2 $ / 130 r)

Near the Marjanishvili metro station there is a fashionable place - Fabrika Tbilisi. Something like the Moscow Flacon. This is a large hostel in a former garment factory. You can live (there are common rooms and private rooms), or you can just spend the evening swinging in a hammock with a cup of coffee.

Now we return to the street. Aghmashenebeli Avenue was recently ennobled, part of it is pedestrianized. Here are street musicians, dozens of cafes, shops, restored old houses. Festivals and folk festivals take place in the summer. An analogue of the Moscow Arbat and "a piece of Europe" in the center of Tbilisi.

Many people call this area Turkish because Turkish restaurants and hookah bars prevail here. The prices are not low, the exchange rate is unprofitable (suddenly decide to change), but you should definitely walk along the pedestrian street.

It is especially pleasant here in the evening, when the lights are turned on and the cafes are filled with vacationers. Afternoon is good too.

There are several decent inexpensive hotels and hostels in the Marjanishvili metro area, I recommend reading about how to understand in which area of ​​the city it is more convenient to rent a house.

Dry bridge

Coordinates: 41.701123, 44.802914

Flea market in Tbilisi. The range of products on offer has been rather strange in recent years. They mainly sell junk. You can buy someone's worn-out boots or disposable slippers with the Sheraton Hotel logo.

Sometimes there is a chance to find something interesting: souvenirs, handmade toys, old coins, dishes. It is not worth going to the Dry Bridge specially, but if you pass by, you can take a look.

Rustaveli Avenue


The figures are placed along the bottom of the houses

Through the square on April 9 we go to Shota Rustaveli Avenue. This is the main avenue of Tbilisi. Here and there there are bronze figurines near the houses, don't miss them.

You can walk to the end of the Rustaveli metro station, look at the monumental buildings of the Soviet era and at the big bicycle at the beginning of the avenue.

There are several theaters and museums on Rustaveli, but I am not special for them, so I will not mislead you by recommending a specific one. For me, Tbilisi is still not museums, but city streets, people, music and food.

Mount Mtatsminda


Funicular to Mount Mtatsminda

Coordinates: 41.695393, 44.791808

There is a funicular in Tbilisi to Mount Mtatsminda. To travel, you need to buy a non-refundable card for 2 lari(50 p) and pay 2.5 GEL for the rise in one side(3.5 GEL at night).

To visit Mtatsminda or not is everyone's personal business. I love this place and every time I visit Tbilisi, my feet bring me here. Looking at your beloved city from the mountain is especially pleasant on a hot day or at sunset.

The disadvantage of the funicular is that the trailer does not run until a sufficient number of people gather in it.

On the mountain there is an amusement park: a Ferris wheel, a TV tower, attractions for children, viewing with a view of the city. When the heat is hellish in Tbilisi in summer, it is quite cool and comfortable in Mtatsminda.

Here is the temple and graves of Alexander Griboyedov, Stalin's mother. There are 48 graves of poets, dancers, writers, artists, scientists.


Pantheon on Mount Mtatsminda

Where to go?

If you wish, in the afternoon you can go to Vake Park, ride a cable car and take a walk near Turtle Lake. If not, then leave the entertainment data for the next day or next year ?!

Route in Tbilisi for 3 days

What else to see in Tbilisi, when it seems that you have seen everything?

During the first two days we saw a lot, it's time to get out of the center. Today we have on our agenda the natural sights of Tbilisi and buying souvenirs, if necessary.

Route 1: Vake Park and Turtle Lake

Vake Park

Route 2: Lake Lisi and UFOs


Service building 112 in Tbilisi

We are going for a walk and rest on the Lisi lake. In summer, there are a lot of people here, there is a well-equipped pebble beach. Lounger - 4 GEL, bike rental 10 GEL(there is a bike path around the lake).

On the way, do not forget to stop by to look at the "Flying Saucer" service 112

The Emergency Response Center in Tbilisi is like 911 in the United States. Joint assistance service: police, fire department, ambulance.

People are calling on urgent issues, including to report how they saw a flying saucer in the area.

Coordinates of the "plate": 41.737818, 44.755711

Located on Mukhran Machavariani Street, 1.5 km from Lisi Lake.

Route 3: Tbilisi Sea


Monument to the history of Georgia on the Tbilisi Sea
Tbilisi sea club

A popular resting place for the townspeople. Of course, this is not a sea, but a reservoir, but in summer the Tbilisi Sea is full of people, since it is the largest reservoir in the city.

On the Tbilisi Sea there is aquapark, google Gino paradise (30 GEL on weekdays, 40 GEL on the weekend).

You can go to see the memorial "History of Georgia" by Tsereteli (huge monument), walk along the sea or relax there.

Option 4: Botanical Garden and Tabori Temple


Tbilisi Botanical Garden

If we are in love with the center of Tbilisi and never want to leave it, then we continue to explore not the most popular sights.

We buy khachapuri with lemonade and go to a picnic, then go down to the Sololaki area again and visit another couple of front doors.

Or after the garden we put on comfortable shoes and go up to see from above how small, cozy and charming Tbilisi really is.

Route 5


Churchkhela with hazelnuts is a great souvenir

Even on this day, you can go to churchkhela, cheese, souvenirs.

In the same place, nearby, go to the Golden Exchange for items made of minkari cloisonné enamel (Sadguris moedani metro station, Vokzalnaya Square, the lower floor of the Tbilisi railway station).

Delicious khinkals and comfortable shoes for you!

Your Mila Demenkova

I want to start with this, friends. It is important to understand one simple thing about Georgia, without which walking around the sights of Tbilisi will not differ much from "to-do lists for today." Georgia is communication! You can only understand this country and those rave reviews about it by taking it for granted and following it as a guiding star.

Georgia disposes to communication - this is an indisputable fact. Here you can pay for your travel in transport, if you suddenly did not have little change on the ticket, as it was with me on the way from to the city center, here you can ask a stranger how to get to the store and be on the same evening at the house who showed you the road (from when to consider him a good friend - it's up to you to decide) or, returning home along the old streets of Tbilisi, talk to an unfamiliar old grandmother, who, despite her age, briskly walks in the same direction and hums something untranslatable - in general , all this is about Georgia, friends! Gamarjoba 🙂

Want some examples? - Yes please! During the short time that I spent on my first trip to Georgia, I met representatives of the Iranian airline Taban Air and took part in the filming of a promotional video about Georgia, I learned about why Filipinos leave to work in Bahrain and how they live there, I helped to my new friends from Italy, Zhanluk and Matteo, to find their bus to Yerevan, met the Muscovites Nikita and Alena near the statue of Mother Kartli, accidentally bumped into the guys from Svoyodom, who spent their last day on their trip from Yerevan to Tbilisi on bicycles and, Finally, I chatted a little about politics with a German named Jan, who was doing alternative service in Moscow and therefore fluent in Russian. Are you still thinking whether to go to Georgia? Then you should know that in a week on everything about everything I spent less than $ 400 for one (well, that is, if two or three, it would have turned out even cheaper). I wrote separately about and about.

Communicate more with Georgians! Georgians are always happy to help if you need their help. People in Tbilisi do not have the typical vices of metropolitan residents: arrogance, arrogance and indifference, which are often encountered when communicating with people from big cities. And also, they are very cheerful and cheerful people 🙂

But back to what you came for on this page - to the list of recommended places to visit. I thought out the routes for two days in such a way as to capture the most interesting and popular places among tourists. I would recommend visiting the lion's share of all of the following in good and sunny weather, because the views of the city on clear days are especially unforgettable! On the other hand, it is never known whether the weather will please with a clear sunny day or it will turn out to be cloudy, dragging the sky over Tbilisi and you with it. What if the sky is gray? - that's right, communicate! By the way, in a sense, it can also be a salvation.


The first day

The map can be used locally as a guide. He showed how this is done with an example. All you need is mobile internet. In the icons there are photos of the places, and on the links there are descriptions. Bookmark the post to have it close at hand when you connect to the network.

Freedom Square

I propose to start the route of the first day from the notorious Freedom Square, to which, among others, the wide Shota Rustaveli Avenue and the winding street lead. Kote Abkhazi. This square has repeatedly become the site of mass demonstrations, in particular, during the so-called. "Rose revolution", when Mikhail Saakashvili came to power in Georgia. Even in the area of ​​Freedom Square, you can eat tasty and cheap food in numerous restaurants located on the streets adjacent to the square, sit in the cozy Pushkin Square - gawk at passers-by, feeling the rhythm of this old Georgian city.

Speaking of food (yes, yes - in Georgia it is always useful :). I wrote in detail about my favorite places in Tbilisi, where you can have a tasty and inexpensive snack. I have listed in another, no less useful article. Save them both to your bookmarks - they will definitely come in handy in a restaurant or cafe before placing an order, you'll see.

They also talk about Freedom Square in detail on an unusual tour of Tbilisi, where I myself recently went and now recommend it to all my friends and acquaintances. It is unusual because the guides are the most ordinary local residents and they are quite willing to answer all, sometimes even unrelated to the excursion program, questions about everyday life and the peculiarities of life in Tbilisi. Remember I wrote at the very beginning? - communicate more with Georgians! Registration for the excursion.

The funicular can be called a full-fledged Tbilisi entertainment. It is best to take seats at the bottom of the car - the view is especially good there 🙂 It starts from Chonkadze Street and rises to the final stop - Mtatsminda Park. On the way, it makes only one intermediate stop - an exit to the Church of St. David and the pantheon of writers and public figures of Georgia. This is for those who came directly here. I recommend that you go up to the final and go down the tourist trail with a stop at the pantheon.

To travel, you will have to buy a special card of Mtatsminda Park for 2 GEL, the money for which is not refunded 🙁 A one-way trip is also worth 2 GEL. Those. a full circle round-trip will cost 6 GEL. Only we don't need it - we will go back down the path, so we put 2 GEL on the card and go ahead. More precisely up!

Observation deck of Mtatsminda park

An excellent view of the city opens from this point! After taking the funicular up to the terminal station, immediately turn here (for this you will need to go around the funicular building). A great way to meditate and enjoy panoramic views of old Tbilisi.

And hello to you 🙂

The Pantheon on Mount Mtatsminda and the Church of St. David

The pantheon of writers and public figures of Georgia is located on Mount Mtatsminda. It is best to get here by going down a special tourist trail, which starts near the upper station of the funicular (when leaving the funicular building, turn left and follow to the parking lot, there you will also see the beginning of the trail and the corresponding sign). It is not difficult to navigate the trail, but there is one place where you need to turn in the right direction. The pantheon itself contains the remains of Griboyedov, the mother of Joseph Stalin - Ekaterina Geladze, famous personalities and national heroes of Georgia. There is nothing terrible or even more creepy in this place. When, after visiting the pantheon, I went down the trail, I met a group of schoolchildren with their parents and a guide at the head. This I mean that even children are taken here 🙂

Beginning of the tourist trail to the pantheon - turn left

The very place where you can turn the wrong way. Gotta turn left

The grave of I. Stalin's mother - when you are here, pay attention to the date of death ...

Church of St. David - inside the tombstone on the floor

Pantheon

Cafe "Waters Lagidze"

Descending from Mount Mtatsminda, it's time to have a bite of Adjarian khachapuri and drink creamy lemonade in the authentic Laghidze Water. There are several such establishments in Tbilisi, but the very first one appeared in the basement of a house at the intersection of Mitropan Laghidze Street and Shota Rustaveli Avenue. Exact address: 3 Mitropan Laghidze St, Tbilisi, Georgia.

Creamy lemonade is the tastiest - take it 🙂

Flea market "Dry Bridge"

Having a snack in Lagidze Waters, it's time to buy some of the trinkets - let's go to the flea market!

Old patifon

Jugs

Daggers

Old lenses and cameras

Badges

Allegedly handmade carpets

Paintings by street artists

Monument to the artist

Rezo Gabriadze Puppet Theater and Shavteli Street

The first time in Tbilisi, I never got to the puppet theater. There were simply no performances while I was in the city. They generally have very long breaks. The theater has its own website where you can see if there is a performance on the date of interest. Here you can try to buy a ticket, but personally, I never succeeded - you reach the last stage of payment and at the very end, in the step from confirmation, the site gives some kind of error. As a result, I bought a ticket at the theater box office (by the way, cards are also accepted here). All the descriptions of the performances are in Georgian and it is rather difficult to understand something. Almost all performances are also given in Georgian, but there are also in Russian - for example, "The Battle of Stalingrad". Recently, a free audio translator service has appeared in the theater - this is when you are given special headphones, in which you receive a pre-recorded translation in Russian, synchronously with the actions on the stage. Such headphones are given at all performances, so there is more of a question: "What to do if you don't understand Georgian?" does not arise. And also, if you come at a certain time (at 12:00 and 19:00) to the theater tower, built by Rezo during the reconstruction of the old building, you can see a small puppet show - free of charge and for everyone. Here is also the Gabriadze cafe, the interior of which was also created personally by Rezo.

Shavteli Street is an old and narrow Georgian street with cozy cafes in the historical part of the city, along which it is just pleasant to walk slowly, looking at the bunches of grapes hanging over the heads of passers-by.

Screenshot of the Rezo Gabriadze theater website page

Tower where puppet shows take place

Grapes hang right over the heads of passers-by

Cafe Linville

You can finish the first day by sitting in Rezo Gabriadze cafe, in one of the cozy restaurants on Shavteli street, or go to Linville cafe at 4/6 Gia Abesadze St. This place does not look like a restaurant in its usual sense, but this is precisely why it deserves special attention. I wrote more about this and other recommended places in a separate section.

Second day

You can also download this map to your smartphone and use it as a guide. The condition is the same - the presence of a mobile Internet.

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity or Tsminda Sameba

In fact, this is a new building, like the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow. At the same time, there is a lot of controversy regarding the chosen place where the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity was erected. I am not against either one or the other, but parallels are clearly traced here ... And the fact is that there used to be an old Armenian cemetery Khojivank, which was dug up by bulldozers during construction and graves were opened. However, the human remains were not properly reburied. Accordingly, this could in no way cause approval from the Armenian diaspora in Georgia.

Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Please note - in the premises of the temple, women walk with their heads uncovered.

Old Generation Cafe

This is a wonderful place that you will surely come across as you descend the Wine Rise from the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity to Metekhi, and therefore not to come here is just a crime! A small room with stone walls, hung with various old Georgian attributes of life, which almost came to the times of Vakhtang Gorgasali 🙂 The Old generation mistress managed to turn her brainchild from an inconspicuous family cafe into a real cult place! Although until now only very experienced and sophisticated travelers can be found there. The coffee is brewed according to some secret recipe and looks like irish coffee. But not him. We came here with my Iranian friends and were completely delighted! This cafe is also in mine. The photo at the beginning of this post is from there 🙂

Maybe there is already someone, to whom the hostess revealed her secret recipe for making delicious coffee? Write, plz, in the comments.

Metekhi is a historical district of Tbilisi, located on a high mountain overlooking the Kura River, or as the Georgians themselves call this river - Mtkvari. The history of this place is not easy - several times the Metekhi temple was destroyed to the ground: first by the Mongols, and then by the Persians. What flaunts on the mountain now is the legacy of the 15-17th centuries, when the territory adjacent to the church was turned into a fortress and, apparently, this discouraged hunters of other people's wealth from trying to destroy the temple again. In the second half of the 20th century, an equestrian statue of Vakhtang Gorgasali, one of the founders of Georgian statehood, appeared on the square in front of the temple.

Metekhi temple and Vakhtang Gorgasali statue

Fragments of the fortress around the territory of the Metekhi temple

Europe Square and Rike Park

Europe Square and Rike Park - here you can look up at the presidential palace (well, how else to look at the presidents? :), built on the initiative of Mikhail Saakashvili and where tourists are not allowed, in principle, the unfinished State Theater of Music and Drama (two futuristic glass pipes in the middle of the park, connected to each other - currently the construction of the facility is hopelessly frozen), and, finally, to the most enchanting object of the Rike park - the so-called the Peace Bridge connecting the park alleys with the opposite embankment of the Kura River. Now let the cute girls screw up their eyes, and their brutal representatives of the stronger sex will laugh together with the male population of Tbilisi, which jokingly calls this bridge ... ummm ... a gasket. That's it, and I told you - communicate more with Georgians, they will teach you not that

In general, putting jokes aside, I will say that the park is very cute and even cozy! Couples in love who have chosen secluded places along the alleys create its special energy by their presence in Rike Park.

The bridge of peace

Tbilisi cable car

The road is a loud statement ... In fact, the ascent takes no more than two minutes (or even less). Perhaps that is why it is worth climbing the cable car even for those who are panicky afraid of heights. You simply won't have time to get scared 🙂 Also, unlike the funicular of the Mtatsminda Park, you can pay for the cable car with a MetroMoney card, the same one that pays for travel in the Tbilisi metro. The cost of a one-way lift is 1 GEL. Working hours - from 11:00 to 23:00.

Entrance to the cable car next to Europe Square

The view from the mountain is really great! I stood here for half an hour as if under hypnosis and peered at the roofs of old houses behind which narrow authentic streets could hardly be seen. Sometimes I turned my gaze to those two pipes, which are part-time unfinished State Theater of Music and Drama - they really draw all the attention to themselves. Nikita and Alena suddenly pulled me out of this vicious state of light trance, asking to take a picture of them against the background of the city. Of course he agreed. Guys, thank you for this photo too 🙂

It's been a long time since I was in the photo 🙂

Rising on the cable car, all tourists rush to the right - straight to the statue of the mother of Kartli, the mother of all Georgian people. Why? - because the contents of her hands are symbols and characterize the Georgian nation as a whole: a cup of wine for those who came in peace in one hand and a sword for those who are scoundrels and do not want to be friends - in the other.

Mother Kartli - bottom view

Narikala fortress

Meydan Square lies under the Narikala Mountain - this is a real city fortress (or rather, what was left of it after the earthquake of 1827), the construction of which began already in the 5th century. Then it was permanently completed and rebuilt, especially the Arabs who ruled here since the 8th century for 400 years. You can get to the ruins of the fortress if you take the cable car and immediately turn left at the exit onto the path that leads to the fortress.

Remains of the Narikala fortress

Sulfur baths

I visited the baths themselves recently and therefore I can say with confidence that they are definitely worth a visit. By the way, it is not necessary to go swimming in sulfuric water, you can just walk around to see these bizarre forms in the form of khinkali. You can get to the place of sacral cleansing of your mortal body by performing healing sulfur procedures by descending from the Narikala fortress and entering the whole block from the baths! According to legend, it was the sulfur springs that predetermined the place where the city was erected, and from them Tbilisi also got its name: after all, "tbili" means warm.

By the way, if you catch an unusual tour of Tbilisi, you can not only gaze at the buildings of the sulfur baths, but also listen to very interesting things related to the history of their origin 🙂

Meydan Square

This is a rather small but very famous place in Tbilisi. In a cultural and religious sense, Meydan Square is an absolute mix of a synagogue, a Georgian temple, a mosque and an Armenian church. In addition to the representations of various religious denominations, the main transport arteries of the old city also flock here. It is best to explore the area from the balcony of the national restaurant - my favorite place.

View of Meydan Square from the balcony of Samikitno restaurant

Samikitno Restaurant

After walking around the ruins of the Narikala fortress, you will probably want to have a good snack. I advise you to do this in a restaurant of national Georgian cuisine on Meydan Square. There is a lot of interesting and tasty things on the menu, but here I always ordered assorted khinkali. In this restaurant you can arrange a real tasting by ordering one khinkali of different types. For example, my favorites are khinkali with mushrooms, cheese, beef and Kakhetian style (with pork). And if you look here in the morning and have breakfast "Imeruli" khachapuri with cold coffee, then hunger will again remind of itself only in the evening 🙂 Prices - you will not find cheaper 🙂

Khinkali prices in Samikitno


Where to go in the evening

On the remaining third day, I would either go to, or just wander around the evening city, looking at the people on the streets. It's always interesting.

Shota Rustaveli Avenue

If you ask me where is it better to start a walk in the evening Tbilisi? - then I would recommend starting from the busy Shota Rustaveli Avenue. It is in the evening that he creates the mood: young people on the benches, illuminated buildings along the avenue, brand store windows and, of course, a fountain near the building of the former Georgian parliament.

Shota Rustaveli Avenue

Shardeni street

Not to be confused with Shavteli Street (the one with the Rezo Gabriadze Theater). On Shardeni you will not find quiet cozy cafes and hanging bunches of grapes, but there are whole bunches of pubs and nightclubs, musicians and tourists having a rest after a busy day. Some of them just wander back and forth, someone preferred to sit on a comfortable sofa to smoke a hookah, someone stands and, as if spellbound, listens to one of the many musicians who play right in the open air for almost everyone restaurant. The coolest party was in the El Centrio bar-restaurant - a place in the very center of Shardeni street, where respectable audience always gathers and plays with live music. By the way, not bad ...

The prices in the establishments on Shardeni Street are higher than the average in the city. It is understandable - it is intended for tourists.

The beginning of Shardeni street

El Centrio Bar & Restaurant

The bridge of peace

The Bridge of Peace is good both during the day and in the evening. In the evening, plus everything else, it is beautifully highlighted. However, few people know that, according to the idea of ​​its creators, it is in the dark on two parapets of the bridge that a light message is turned on, which contains the elements that make up the human body from the periodic table. The main meaning of the message is that all people are one, regardless of faith and nationality. Did you know that?

Romantic tourists know that the Tbilisi funicular works almost around the clock - from 09:00 to 04:00. So what? - that's right, you can climb to the very top and enjoy the view of Tbilisi at night! And do not be upset by the high cost compared to the daily rate - 3 GEL. It's worth it! It is especially important if it's a clear day, with one hand you hold your other half by the hand, and with the other - a bottle of Kindzmarauli :)

Tbilisi has a special charm "and", which can be ordered right here.

Mgzavrebi, Mizandari, Nabeglavi - something familiar? And if so: Kikabidze, "Mimino", Borjomi ?! Such a captivating array of endlessly voiced consonants can only describe Georgia! Beautiful, blooming, alluring, stately, regal, courageous, feminine and so hospitable Georgia.

Inspired by the recently released film-almanac "Love with an Accent" and having reviewed the ageless pictures of Sergei Parajanov with the magnificent Sofiko Chiaureli, we went on a two-day acquaintance with Tbilisi. The capital of Georgia beckons to stay at least for a week, lures with stories about the beauties of all corners of its country, causes an irresistible desire to quit all business and embark on a bold journey through the regions of Georgia: to Kakheti - to harvest grapes or to Svaneti - to the harsh mountains. But we have only two free days, which we dedicated to Tbilisi, its environs and, of course, to the unique people living here. Our Georgian weekend turned into a small guidebook full of emotions and impressions.

There are no "dry" sights in the Caucasus, everything here evokes genuine emotions and a rarely felt sense of kinship, whether it be urban sculptures hidden in the greenery of the streets, the outlines of ancient temples in the rays of the sun, museum paintings by Niko Pirosmani and David Kakabadze, or tenderly collected with great love personal collections of household items - earthenware jugs for wine or painted utensils.

OUR GEORGIAN MUST VISIT & TRY LIST FOR TWO DAYS IN TBILISI

The first day
... Take a walk and see the performance of Erisioni
... Try khachapuri and famous lemonades in "Lagidze Waters"
... Enjoy painting by Niko Pirosmani at the National Gallery
... Bask in the sulfur baths
... Dine with music and toast at Tsiskvili Restaurant

Second day
... Buy farm products at the market and cook national dishes
... Go to Mtskheta and see Svetitskhoveli and Jvari
... Dine in the Georgian village of Ateni with Atenuri wine tasting
... Watch a touching performance at the Rezo Gabriadze Puppet Theater
... Admire the panorama of the city at night from the ski lift and dine at the Funicular restaurant

FIRST DAY IN TBILISI

The morning begins with a continental breakfast at the hotel, perhaps the only light meal in Georgia. Be careful! In local restaurants, it's hard to resist not trying everything in one go. Then a walk along Rustaveli Avenue led us to get to know the musical soul of Georgia. We were lucky enough to attend a rehearsal of the ensemble folk song and dance "Erisioni"... The spectacle is magnificent! About a hundred beautiful artists in national costumes, men and women of different ages and talented children demonstrated brilliant technical skills in performing dances, songs and playing national instruments.

In the photo: Erisioni's performance, photo source

In translation from Georgian "erisioni" means "sublime". This word is pronounced when the setting sun illuminates the mountain peaks. In such a sublime state, I was all the action, and my thoughts were only that I would advise all my unmarried girlfriends to travel to Georgia. I have not seen such stately and stately men in any country in the world. Gezo Gigineishvili told the pure truth in his film "Love with an Accent".

Stills from the film "Love with an Accent"

After enjoying the great beauty of the performance, we proudly raised our heads in Georgian, straightened our shoulders and went to the famous all over the post-Soviet space, but what is there, to the whole world, restaurant "Waters Lagidze".

Remember from Yesenin:

“Forgive me, Caucasus, what I mean about them
I said to you inadvertently
Teach my Russian verse
Kizilov juice is flowing ”.

Or Yevtushenko:

“What a taste for a world too busy.
It doesn't matter, I'm tired of bad taste,
That feeling of a miracle of gold
Once hissed on the lips. "

Delicious poetry, delicious lemonades, delicious khachapuri. The atmosphere of the pavilion is unforgettable. Three types of khachapuri are prepared here: Imeretian, Megrelian and Adjarian. The first two are round and baked with suluguni inside, the third type is different in that the khachapuri looks like a boat with a piece of butter and a broken chicken egg in the middle.

In the photo: Adjarian khachapuri in the "Lagidze Waters" restaurant

Stir the filling with a fork, break off the bread edge of the boat, dip it into the filling and eat - this is the most correct way to cut Adjarian khachapuri. Be sure to try tarragon, cream soda, chocolate vanilla, cherry and double cream lemonades. Do not hesitate, eat everything, this is Georgian cuisine that does not tolerate diets!

In the photo: the label of Lagidziev's lemonades

After lunch, it’s time to immerse ourselves in art, and we went to a nearby Dmitry Shevardnadze National Gallery... A new dose of great beauty. The gallery's funds contain the richest collections of Georgian contemporary art: painting, graphics, small plastic, works by Niko Pirosmani, David Kakabadze, Nado Gudiashvili, Elena Akhvlediani. A riot of color carries the viewer into the paintings, into the barely accessible world of the artist. Do not miss this museum item in the program of your trip to Georgia, because what can tell about the life of the country better than art.

National Gallery. Rustaveli Avenue, 11. In the photo: canvases by Niko Pirosmani in the National Gallery,from left to right: "Giraffe" 1900s, "Fisherman" 1900s, "Actress Margarita" 1909

We had a little time left before visiting the sulfur baths - the healing water with which the city once began, and we walked through the old Tiflis. Carved balconies, hanging bridges, winding streets, carpet shops, many Georgian restaurants and many different denominations: a Catholic cathedral, an Orthodox church, a Jewish synagogue, a Gregorian church and a Muslim mosque peacefully coexist in Tbilisi. King David was a tolerant person.

Photo: Tbilisi sulfur baths, photo source

Baths in Georgia- this is a special place to visit, here once Alexander Dumas was treated, who wrote that out of the six weeks he spent in Tiflis, he went to the Persian baths every third day. Of course, today the Persians are mostly replaced by Azerbaijanis, but you will undoubtedly get the pleasure of grinding on hot marble after sulfuric water.

Do you know how it is customary to end a weekend evening in Georgia? With music, wine and toast! So from the experience gained, we advise Tsiskvili restaurant, the second name of the Melnitsa restaurant(Beliashvili Street, Tbilisi, Georgia, tel: +995 322 53 07 97, website)... It will be fun and once again very satisfying.

SECOND DAY IN TBILISI

I don’t regret anything, I don’t want anything -
in the golden Sveti-Tskhoveli I put a poor candle.
I give praise and honor to small stones in Mtskheta.
Lord, let it be forever as it is now.
B. Akhmadulina

The best morning is an early visit to a real farmers' market, accompanied by an experienced chef, buying the freshest ingredients and truly transforming them into traditional dishes. Satsivi, Chakhokhbili, Ajapsandali, Chashushuli, Chakapuli ... mmm, you must agree, these are the most delicious words of the Georgian language!

Photo: Tbilisi fruit market, photo source

Morning smoothly turns into day, and we go to Mtskheta, climb the trampled paths to ancient monastery Jvari... The strongest wind at the top knocks you off your feet, but the landscape is mesmerizing. Exactly as Lermontov wrote, "Where, merging, noisy, embracing, like two sisters, the jets of Aragva and Kura ...".

On the opposite bank -. In this country, temples are not just religious attractions, they are also the property of the people. The crowds of tourists do not overshadow the rare parishioners, quite the opposite. People go to temples, light candles, old people teach children to pray, retell intertwined legends about their saints. The sacred architecture of these places is permeated with spiritual light, and the soulful beauty of nature awakens spiritual beauty.

"The penetrating beauty of nature awakens spiritual beauty"

After buying cornel marshmallow and several bottles of Kindzmarauli, we went to settlement Ateni, where ours was awaited by an amazing feast at the house of a local resident. It was incredible! We were drunk with wine from our own vineyard, fed with dozens of dishes, told and showed how to make homemade cheese and churchkhella, they didn't have time to pour wine into glasses over toasts, plates with new food lay on top of each other in layers, and all this was accompanied by singing. I didn't want to part, as if we were old friends or relatives. However, this is indeed the case, we are one.

In the photo: clay jugs - personal collection of the owner of the house

The evening came imperceptibly, and we were already late for the planned performance in puppet theater Rezo Gabriadze... Do not think that if the main roles are dolls, then the show is intended only for children, this is not at all the case. On our arrival, they showed a touching performance "Ramona", which was shown in two languages ​​at once - Georgian and Russian.

In the photo: the fairytale tower of the Rezo Gabriadze theater

I'm not afraid to say that this is a real masterpiece, actors in black gloves set the puppets in motion, and the puppets set the souls of the audience in motion, making us tremble and empathize. The building and the theater hall are very tiny, but its cultural significance is immense. And, yes, you will definitely not regret devoting an evening in Tbilisi to the theater.

Dinner in a restaurant at the top gave a new beauty to the second day Mtsatminda mountains... The panoramic night city was pleasing to the eye, and the heart was overflowing with the emotions experienced over the past weekend.

USEFUL ADVICE FOR TRAVELERS

Our good friends from the company helped us to organize a meeting with "Erisioni", a master class on cooking national dishes, a feast in Ateni and just open Georgia. Calypso(). Before the trip, I received a letter in which they wrote that Tbilisi is a kind of theater, a city that loves to eat deliciously, gossip, entertain the soul with invention and fun. This is so, even in two days you will be imbued with Georgia, it will remain in your heart like mature love, and you will definitely come back here.

Text and photo: Polina Dobrogaeva